NYC French Resto Review: Bar Tabac

What do you do when you have an abundance of French restaurants in your neighborhood and a shortage of time in which to try them out?  You start eating, toute de suite.  First stop: Bar Tabac.

I ate at Bar Tabac on the same day I arrived in New York City, and it was restaurant love at first sight.  Located on the corner of Smith and Dean Streets, Tabac is smack dab in the middle of a lively shopping/dining center in Brooklyn’s Cobble Hill neighborhood.  What struck me first about this restaurant is its authentic Frenchness.  From the simple outdoor seating, to the Francophone clientele, to the wood and brick interior, to the charming French accents of the staff, to the fact that they don’t accept Visa or MasterCard, everything will make you feel like you’ve just discovered Paris’ best kept local dining secret.   Except that you're in Brooklyn.  

Bar Tabac's food is typical French bistro fare (steak frites) with some American influences thrown in (Late Night Giant Bar Tabac Burger...I'm not joking).  The first dish I ordered was their "goat cheese on croutons" salad, with a glass of Chenin Blanc to accompany.  The salad portion was definitely French, but so was the freshness and taste, so I couldn’t complain.  I went back to Bar Tabac a few days later to try their brunch, and this time I ate a truly memorable croque monsieur with a side of fries and salade verte.   The bread on the croque was crispy, buttery perfection, and they didn’t skimp on the cheese.  It wasn't diet food, but it went great with the French Open final they were showing on the flat screen.

The best part about Bar Tabac is its welcoming, low-key atmosphere.  The servers are friendly and the clientele is down-to-Earth.  No Parisian snobbery here, just good food and an easy place to relax, either with a friend, or with your fresh-off-the-presses Sunday edition of the New York Times.   Did I mention they have $3.95 mimosas?

My First Impressions of New York City

I've been in New York City for almost a week now, and have already started to get a feel for the place.  First impressions are sometimes right, and sometimes proven to be surprisingly wrong, but I'm going to take a stab at outlining mine anyways. 

Impression Number One:  New York is loud.

This city is nothing if it's not noisy.  It's noisy in the morning, noisy during the day, and even noisy at night (and overnight), thanks to  variety of activities such as the DJ who was spinning Euro beats in the courtyard behind my apartment yesterday evening. The soundtrack for this city is a never-ending stream of honking horns, roaring traffic, and an assortment of everyday sounds created by people living their lives. You could argue that New York is loud because it's a big city, but Paris is a big city as well, and I would never describe it as "loud."   When it comes to decibels, New York is on a whole different level. 

Impression Number Two: We're free to be you and me in New York. 

As far as I can tell, New York is quite possibly the most come-as-you-are city on the planet.  There is no standard way of being, of looking, of dressing, or of enjoying life.  Here you are free to be as you are, and no one will pass judgment.   Contrast that with Paris, where staring people down on the Métro is a popular local sport.  You know all those guides telling you how to "Dress like a Parisian" or "Eat like a Parisian" or "Carry Yourself like a Parisian?"  I can't imagine them existing for New Yorkers.  How do you classify the people of a city who seem so eager to let everyone simply be who they are?

Impression Number Three: New Yorkers are Nice.  Really Nice.

Big cities are usually known for their self-absorbed residents who can't be bothered to take time out of their über busy schedules to engage in the pleasantries of polite society.  So far, New York seems to buck that trend (or stereotype, depending on how you see it).  Everyone from my office building's security guards to the guy who sold me coffee out of his curbside cart has been incredibly friendly.  Please and thank you and "here you go, Miss" are genuinely used in all circumstances.  No one has ever called me "Miss" in Washington.  Forget "Minnesota Nice."  Here it's all about "New York Polite." 

Have you ever been to New York City?  What were your first impressions?  And just for fun, tell us your first impressions of Paris as well (mine: dirty and overrated...they've since changed).

Minnesota Dreamin'

No summer could ever be complete for me without at least one visit to Minnesota.  I think my home state is beautiful year round (yes, even when it's -40 Fahrenheit in the middle of January), but it's definitely on its best behavior in the summer.  Lakes, trees, and brilliant blue skies are just the beginning.  There's also the powerful energy that gets created when 5 million people do everything they can to take advantage of the warmth while it lasts.  Minnesotans don't waste a single minute of summer. 

Given all that, and the fact that I dearly missed friends and family, I could hardly wait for my most recent trip home.  Memorial Day weekend in the Twin Cities turned out to be exactly what I needed.  Here's a short photo diary of four glorious days in the North Star State:

Taking Amtrak

Americans who have spent time in Europe often lament the lack of convenient, high-speed and far-reaching rail service in their own country.  Eurail passes in hand, they've sprinted from London to Paris to Rome quickly and cheaply and wonder why they can't do the same from New York City to Chicago to Los Angeles.  The United States' used to be a world leader in railroads (see the 1800s), but today's network of trains in the New World is nowhere near as developed as it is across the Atlantic.  Nevertheless, options for train travel do exist, and I often wonder if we Americans think we don't have access to trains simply because we're not trying hard enough.  We've all heard of Amtrak, for example, but how many of us have actually used it? 

Until today, I was one of those Americans who had heard of Amtrak but never used it.  In fact, I had never even seriously considered using it before New York City-based colleagues told me to head up to my temporary summer assignment by heading to Washington, D.C.'s Union Station to buy a train ticket.  So, here I am, writing this blog from the comfort of Amtrak's Acela Express with service to Wilmington, Philadelphia, New York City, Boston, and a few other stops in between.  First impressions are important, and Amtrak has certainly passed the test.  Purchasing my ticket was a breeze (I used an automated machine at the station), the train staff is friendly and helpful (lots of "good mornings" and other pleasantries), and the train itself is comfortable and practical (loads of leg room and free wifi).

This train won't travel at the same speeds of, say, France's TGV - a technological marvel that can zip you from city to city at up to 320 kilometers per hour (199 miles per hour) - but, depending on your route and desired time frame, it's a decent alternative to flying.  I left Washington at 9:00 a.m. and can expect to arrive at Penn Station by 11:46 a.m.  It's a longer trip than by plane, but if you factor in the time it takes to check in at the airport, go through security, taxi around runways, wait for your bags, and travel from an airport to the city center, you're looking at an overall comparable time table.  Not to mention the superior comfort of a train, which can offer leg room, urban and countryside views, and the ability to travel with liquids that are larger than 3 ounces and not shoved into a tiny Ziploc bag.

Longer distances in the U.S. are still more manageable by plane.  Taking Amtrak from Washington, D.C. to Chicago will only run you $163 (my trip to NYC is $180, prices can vary), but the journey will take nearly 24 hours.  That's great if you have the time to enjoy a leisurely cross-country adventure, but the two-hour plane ride is more practical if you need to get there now.  Still, I can't help but wonder what would happen if Americans gave this travel option more of a chance.  We do have rails in the U.S., and maybe they're exactly what we need to relax and rediscover the simple pleasures of "getting there," by train, just like we did in Europe.

On the Move...Again

Before moving to New York City on June 1st I’ll be going home to Minnesota for a much-needed Memorial Day Weekend with family and friends.  But before even that happens, there are suitcases in need of packing, boxes in need of mailing, and cleaning, cleaning, cleaning taking place in every nook and cranny of my apartment.  Somewhere in the middle of all the excitement and anticipation (and headaches) I realized it has only been three months since my last move, from Brussels to Washington.  I don’t know whether that fact makes me happy or makes me want to take a very, very long nap.   

As much as I love the new experiences that come with moving to a different city, I don’t love all the work it takes to get there.  Really, how many boxes can you pack and unpack and repack in a three-month span before you decide to just stay put?  Some people move all the time and entire societies have built themselves around the nomadic lifestyle, but right now I’m craving a pretty sizable dose of stability.  After I get back from New York City, that is.

Visiting France, sans Paris

French friends used to be incredulous when I told them I had never been to New York City.  Quoi?!?  How can you live in the United States and never have visited NYC?  Cue me telling them that there is so much more to the U.S. than our most populous city, and, hey!, I’ve been to legions of interesting places all over my country, from the very bottom tip of Texas, to the Hawaiian Islands, to the shores of Lake Superior.  Cue them staring at me with that French look that says, “you poor, sad American.”  

But I stand by my reasoning for not rushing out to see NYC and I’d like to make the same argument for France:  There’s so much more to see than Paris!  If you’re looking to branch out, here are a few suggestions.  They’re by no means hugely off the beaten path – a couple are large cities by French standards – but they might not be the first places you think of when planning a transatlantic trip.

Toulouse – France’ fourth largest city has pink buildings, denizens brandishing a funny accent, good year-round weather, and easy access to nearby medieval sites.   Just remember that in Toulouse, “vin” is pronounced “veng.”  Forget that bit of regional accent trivia and you’ll have a hard time tracking down a glass of rouge.  Been there.

The Mediterranean, West of Toulon – If you’re looking for flashy discotheques and gaudy glamour, stick to Cannes and Nice.  But if you want family-friendly fun in the sun, head west.  Toulon is rough around the edges, but the nearby coastal cities have beautiful beaches, quaint old towns, exceptional markets, and come-as-you-are attitudes

Nîmes – While not as famous as its neighbors, Arles, Avignon, and Aix-en-Provence, Nîmes, with its impressive examples of Roman-era ruins, is certainly worth a visit.  The city’s Roman temple (called the Maison Carée) sticks out like a beautiful sore thumb, and the amphitheater is still in use for events like bullfights and concerts. You can climb what remains of a Roman tower, and the famous Pont du Gard aqueduct is not far from town.

Lille – Lille has what is quite possibly the ugliest French cathedral in history, but it also has a surprisingly good shopping scene.  The local beers are a nice change of pace from other French regions’ local wines, and it’s only a short Eurostar ride away from London, Paris, and Brussels.

Cannes Calling

The 63rd Cannes Film Festival is now underway, which means it's time for me to dust off my annual feelings of regret over the fact that I've never attended.  Ever since studying at the College International de Cannes in the fall of 2001, I promised myself that someday I would return to the scene of my formative study abroad trip to enjoy the city in full-on glamour mode.  But every year, the end of May sneaks up on me, and I suddenly realize I've once again missed my chance to catch a glimpse of the red carpet.

A recent, not-so-favorable article in the Washington Post made me feel un peu better about missing this year's Festival.  According to the author, the festivities are a bit of a downer this year, marred by everything from the economic crisis in Europe, to bad weather, to flight problems resulting from an angry volcano in Iceland.  In short, it might not be the best year for snapping photos of stars or lounging on the beach without a care in the world.

Of course, if my ultimate dream of returning to Cannes with the friends who were with me back in 2001 were to actually come to fruition, I don't think the overall mood of the Festival would matter.  Travel is mostly about who you're with, and less about what you're doing/seeing/experiencing.  If you're with the right people, no amount of poor weather or spewing ash can bring you down.  As long as everyone is happy and healthy, you can have a good time no matter what.  And I'm sure that all of our reminiscing could survive even the dreariest of Mediterranean days.

So, Cannes 2001 guys and gals, you know who you are.  Are you listening?

Everything's Coming Up Rosé

As the weather gets warmer and patio seating reemerges from its winter hibernation, my thoughts automatically turn to a chilled glass of rosé.  It’s the French wine that gets no respect, or at least less than it should.  Bordeaux reds and Burgundy whites get all the glory, while rosés are relegated to second-class citizen status.  Why?

A fruity rosé is the perfect wine for l’apéritif, that very French tradition of drinks and light snacks before dinner.  It’s also the perfect warm weather wine: cool and refreshing.  A glass of rosé makes me feel like I’ve been transported to Provence.  Instead of looking at the trees out my kitchen window I’m gazing at fields of lavender or sunflowers.  At other times it invokes the Côte d’Azur, with its seaside restaurants, glowing sunsets, and perma-vacation atmosphere.

Any wine that can do that is a wine worth drinking.  Often. 

New York, New York

Earlier this year I outlined a small list of travel goals for 2010. It was to be the year of the vacation, with a trip to L.A. in March (done) and big hopes for a trip to Greece. Unfortunately, just as the euro is becoming favorable to Americans, my dream of Greece is slipping away into the abyss of too little vacation time and too many other commitments. Fortunately, I'm on track to realize a travel goal from 2009: New York City. Even better, this trip to The Big Apple is going to be more than just a weekend destination, it’s going to be my home for three whole months.


That’s right: I’m moving to NYC. Much like it sent me to Brussels back in August, work is sending me on temporary assignment to Manhattan, starting June 1st. When I’m not working, I hope to be exploring neighborhoods, checking out the restaurant scene, catching up with NYC-based friends, and sniffing around for anything having to do with Paris, France, or French culture. I don’t know much about NYC, having only visited twice for a total of three days time, but I do know that those visits left me wanting more.

So, I find myself in a very familiar situation, and one many of you know as well: running around like crazy trying to get everything ready for the move. Thankfully, the excitement of setting out on a new trip that will be filled with new adventures hasn't worn off. I've done it time and time again, and it still leaves me giddy with anticipation.

How To Get Your French Fix, Offline

You're already using blogs to stay on top of happenings in French society, culture, and politics, but have you ever thought about taking your hunt for all things Francophile offline? There are countless French resources that don't require an Internet connection. Here are three of my favorites:

1. France Magazine - This publication promises the best of "culture, travel and art de vivre," and when I get my hands on a copy I devour every last page. Sure, you can read it online, but isn't it more fun to get a little piece of France delivered to your mailbox every month? Pour a glass of Sancerre and curl up with the most recent edition.

2. News from France - The French Embassy in the U.S. publishes a free monthly newsletter chock full of what's new, popular, and noteworthy in France. Everything from fashion to technology is covered. It also gives information about French cultural events taking place stateside. Did I mention it's free? Email info@ambafrance-us.org to subscribe.

3. France24 - France's answer to CNN, BBC, and Al Jazeera is a 24-hour news station covering international and French events, while also giving considerable time to stories about culture and the arts. If you'd like to watch it on TV, you'll have to first check if and how it's broadcast in your area. If you can't get it over the airwaves, you can resort to watching it online, in English, French, or Arabic.

84 New Ways to get to Paris

A large-scale advertising campaign in the Washington, D.C. Metro tipped me off to the news: Open Skies, an all business airline owned by British Airways, just launched a Dulles - Orly route that promises "an innovative cabin, personalized services, and impeccable quality."

Starting today, discerning travelers can pay from $825 plus taxes and fees for a one way transatlantic "Biz Seat" ticket. If you want a "Biz Bed," get ready to fork over at least $1580 one way. But you'll have to depechez-vous if you'd like to snag a spot on this route. With only five flights per week and 84 seats per flight, Open Skies flights are très exclusive.

Thomas Jefferson, the Francophile

If you visit Monticello – the stately Virginia home of Thomas Jefferson - you’ll learn lots of things about our third president. You’ll learn he preferred being there to anywhere else in the world, that Monticello means “little mountain” in Italian, and that hundreds of free and enslaved people once lived on the premises. You’ll also learn that Jefferson was a major Francophile.


The tour guide doesn’t actually all him a Francophile, and that word isn’t listed in the official brochure, but how else do you describe someone who filled his home with art, objects, and ideas from France? Jefferson spent roughly six years in Paris, first as trade commissioner and then as minister, during which time he no doubt worked to build Franco-American ties, but also spent time collecting a ton of French stuff. Dishes, books, paintings, even the wallpaper in one of his guest bedrooms all made their way from France to Virginia. A painting of Lafayette hangs in the parlor, and his personal chef stayed with him on the Champs-Élysées so he could train with the best Parisian chefs of the time.

Jefferson has always been one of my favorite Founding Fathers. He was an inspirational writer, had a tirelessly curious mind, has what I consider to be the most beautiful memorial in Washington, D.C., and, well, I think he looks rather handsome in riding boots. His taste for all things French only makes him that much cooler.

Georgetown French Market

This past Sunday, the Georgetown Business Improvement District hosted what they called the Georgetown French Market. Promising a "café, crêpes and croissants," "quaint shops, galleries and boutiques," the market was mostly a chance for businesses between P Street and Reservoir Road to sell goods at discounted prices. To be fair, the Georgetown neighborhood of Washington, D.C., does have a rather European feel to it, even on days without French markets. The proximity of the French Embassy and the inexplicable way the area seems to draw Francophones from across the city ups its la France quotient, but the market itself wasn't much to write home about. That said, they did have café and crêpes (plus the usual Georgetown weekend crowds), and I did have fun spotting French things and taking pictures of them. Here's what I found:

Paris and the Volcano

Newly added to the list of Nightmare Scenarios for Travelers: “Stranded for days due to Icelandic volcano eruption.”

And I thought my holiday train woes back in December were bad. Turns out they were nothing compared to the recent (and in many cases, on-going) experience of thousands of travelers who have been stuck in place ever since Eyjafjallajökull decided to spew ash over much of Europe. The cost, stress, and disappointment of canceled plans that resulted from this volcanic activity are enough to make any traveler – even one not currently stuck on the road – weep.

Is there a silver lining in all of this airspace mayhem? I liked how New York Times Op-Ed Contributor Seth Stevenson heralded an "Escape From the Jet Age," by reveling in the scenery we can enjoy and the people we come across when not cruising at 30,000 feet. And when I heard that even President Obama’s all-mighty Air Force One couldn’t fly to Poland due to the ash, I thought it was a nice reminder that no matter who we are, no matter how much access, power, or money we have, we are all at the mercy of Mother Nature.

Of course, it’s easy to look for a silver lining from the comfort of your own unaffected-by-ash home. It would be more interesting to know what (if any) silver linings stranded travelers themselves have been able to find. In any case, I hope if you went to Paris for vacation, and now find yourself stuck there because of the volcano, that you'll quickly head to the nearest café, order a carafe of French wine, and reflect on those who are less fortunate than yourself. Think about those who are stuck trying to get to the French capital, and have, unlike yourself, been denied the perfectly divine pleasure of enjoying Paris on a beautiful Spring day.

Making Gâteau au Chocolat

Flourless chocolate cake. How many among us would turn down a slice of this dense, decadent nearing-perfection dessert? Even if I've just stuffed myself on multiple courses of the most buttery and creamy French food you can imagine, I would still find room for a slice of rich gâteau au chocolat. I used to buy some every now and then at one of my favorite Parisian pâtisseries, savor every last bite, and wash it all down with a (very un-French) glass of cold milk. Bliss.

Not satisfied with simply purchasing already-baked cake, I set out to learn how to make my own gâteau at home. As expected, there are very few ingredients in flourless chocolate cake. It's simply chocolate, butter, sugar, eggs, and, despite its name in English, a wee bit of flour. But while the ingredients are simple, the process is anything but. Many times I've made a cake that didn't quite turn out right, and twice I've flat out ruined it.

The first tale of ruination involved the mistreatment of eggs. I apparently didn't incorporate them well enough into the batter, so the cake came out of the oven with chunks of cooked egg in every slice. An omelette au chocolat, if you you will. The second time I used 100% cocoa dark chocolate, making the cake incredibly bitter. Some palates might like that taste, but to me it was inedible.

If you use the right chocolate, mix the eggs well, and don't over-bake the batter (it should come out of the oven with a little liquidity left in the center), the following recipe will yield you a most delicious treat. You'll be tempted to eat it immediately, but try to resist. Flourless chocolate cake should rest for at least a few hours, overnight if possible. In fact, this cake is actually at its best on approximately day three of its existence. I dare you to make it last that long.


Gâteau au Chocolat

I took this recipe from a French cookbook I had when I lived in Paris. I've converted the amounts in grams and other measurements to their equivalents for an American kitchen, except for the chocolate, bars of which are measured in grams even in the U.S.

200 grams of dark chocolate, preferably 60% cocoa
200 grams of butter (14 tablespoons)
250 grams of sugar (1.1 cups, just do your best to find the .1, I've found it's ok if it's not exact)
5 eggs
1 cuillere à soupe of flour (one tablespoon)

Preheat the over to 190 Celsius (375 Fahrenheit)

Melt the butter and chocolate together in a pot over low heat.
Once the butter and chocolate are melted, remove from heat, mix in the sugar.
Let the mixture cool for about 15 minutes.
Once cool, add the eggs one by one, making sure each has been fully incorporated before adding the next.
Lastly, mix in the flour.
Pour the mixture into a 9 inch round pan that has been buttered and floured.
Bake the cake for 22 minutes, remove from the oven to cool for about 10 minutes, and then flip the cake over onto a serving platter (for best results, hold the platter flat against the top of the cake pan when you do this)
Sprinkle the cake with powdered sugar if desired.
Enjoy!