Ruminations on the Musical Instruments Museum

Brussels is known more for its waffles and beer (not necessariyly in that order) than for its arts and culture, but look closely and you'll see that the Capital of Europe is brimming with intellectual/creative/thought-provoking stimulation. Bruxellois and tourists alike have everything from a theater that specializes in Shakespeare to a comic strip museum at their disposal. If you're traveling to Brussels and you want to do something other than see what costume the Mannekin Pis is wearing, might I suggest a visit to the Musical Instruments Museum? Housed in a striking Art Nouveau building, and often refered to as the MIM, this interactive museum is the perfect first stop on your cultural tour of Brussels.

When I visited the MIM with my friend The Cupcake Avenger back in September, we didn't really know what to expect. So, we were pleasantly surprised to discover that for the relatively small price of 5 euros we would receive entrance to the museum and a set of headphones that would allow us to listen to the instruments. With the MIM to ourselves (it was early Saturday morning in Europe, after all) we wandered through three different galleries while dancing to the beats, rhythms and songs that automatically began each time we would step in front of a display. The gallery that is dedicated to traditional instruments from around the world was my favorite, and I happily tapped my toes to the old French accordians in particular. In addition to increasing our knowledge of musical history, visiting the MIM gave us an opportunity to enjoy some good old fashioned fun.

After listening to everything from bagpipes to a mariachi band we headed up to the MIM's rooftop café for a couple of lattés and a gorgeous panoramic view of the city. I thought about everything we had just seen and heard and was reminded of the universality of music. The audio guides of most museums ask you to select your language: French? English? Spanish? Japanese? But not the MIM. When you put on those clunky headphones you listen to the same sounds as everyone else, no translation needed. It was a nice realization; one that made me feel all warm and fuzzy about the world around us. And hungry for some waffles and beer.

Manneken Pis Day

You've probably heard of Brussels' Manneken Pis, or "Little Man Urinating," statue. He's the miniature boy who's not ashamed to do his business on a perch in the corner of a quaint Belgian street. But did you know that he has costumes? Yes, costumes. The Bruxellois love their peeing statue so much that they've bestowed upon him a wardrobe whose options outshine my own. Manneken Pis has an outfit for every occasion: a red Santa Claus suit and hat for Christmas, country-specific clothing to celebrate national holidays, and a white, bejeweled getup to honor Elvis Presley's birthday. There's even a website that maintains a photo gallery of his costumes, including a calendar of the days he can be expected to be wearing them.

I recently paid a visit to the world's most famous peeing boy and happily discovered he had gotten dressed up for the occasion. In fact, the crowd of beer-drinking, instrument-playing and anthem-singing Belgians who stood around him had also gotten dressed up. What's more, they were all wearing identical (full-sized) versions of his red and blue cape/hat ensemble. I didn't completely understand what I had stumbled across until I spotted a menu chalkboard declaring it to be Manneken Pis Day. I knew they gave him costumes, but I had no idea they also gave him his own day. That's one luckly little statue.

Brussels in a Notebook

Fellow blogger, Nomadic Matt, recently blogged about his need to keep better notes while on the road. I sympathize with his situation having had many a frustrating moment trying to remember some important detail - an address, the name of a favorite restaurant - last year in Paris. Getting ready to head to Brussels, I was vowing to do a better job this time around when another fellow blogger came to the rescue: The Cupcake Avenger gifted me my very first Molskine City Notebook.

Now, it's possible that before receiving a Moleskine City Notebook all wrapped up in a pretty little birthday bag, I was the only traveler in existence who didn't really know what a Moleskine City Notebook was. Basically, it's a guide book that you make yourself as you go along exploring and living in a specific city. There are some street maps and a metro guide in the front of my Brussels edition, but the rest is up to me. They give you sections for writing down favorite shops, eateries, encounters and museums. There is a little expandable pouch in the back for stashing away business cards, ticket stubs and newspaper clippings. There are blank pages for your notes, and tracing papers for, well, whatever you might need tracing papers for. I recently used my Moleskine to jot down the address of a fromagerie that recently won my heart with an amazing crottin de chèvre.

Having only used Moleskin for a few short days, I already don't know how I ever traveled without one. Isn't it fun how there's always a new travel toy to discover and play with on your next trip? If you know you're going to be in a certain city for an extended period of time, think about picking up your own City Notebook. They makes guides for locales all over the globe, from Amsterdam to Zurich. When you're done, you'll have the perfect, useful souvenir in your possession. And you'll never again forget the name of a favorite fromagerie.

Where in the World is This?

At first glance, you might think this photo was taken in Paris. In reality, the French capital, and its famous, towering symbol, are a world away from where I took this shot. I just returned from a weekend in Las Vegas, Nevada, home to dark casinos, over-the-top stage productions, and themed hotels. What looks here like the Eiffel Tower is actually a replica that looms over a Vegas hotel called Paris. They also have a smaller version of the Arc de Triomphe and typically-Parisian art nouveau porticoes over entryway doors.

France isn't the only European country that has inspired hoteliers in Las Vegas. In addition to sipping wine under a fake Eiffel Tower, visitors can take a gondola ride at The Venetian, wander ancient Rome at Caesar's Palace, and experience the era of King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table at Excalibur. It's the Old World done anew, complete with the kind of outlandish cheesiness the city of Las Vegas has painstakinly mastered. Nothing can match the real Europe - Roman ruins are exponentially more powerful when they're authentic - but it's still fun to wander the indoor streets of "Venice" or "Paris," taking note of the details builders used to channel these cities' spirits. And though I knew it was just a replica of La Tour Eiffel, I couldn't resist taking a moment to marvel at Vegas's glowing faux tower, camera in hand.

Roadside Attractions of Minnesota

Have you ever been driving down the road when the sight of a giant fish statue compels you to pull over and take a closer look? A friend and I had just pulled out of a gas station along Highway 169 during a mini road trip up north and were happily gnawing on our freshly purchased beef jerky when I spotted it. A quick swerve into the next lane followed by a sudden right turn into a park brought us up close and personal with a larger than life version of a walleye. The Minnesota state fish had never looked better.

Further up along our route we also saw a giant Robin Hood and a giant helicopter. Other structures I've previously seen along roads in my home state include a rooster, a voyageur sans pants, Paul Bunyon and Babe the Blue Ox, the Jolly Green Giant, a snowman, and a polar bear. Come to think of it, if you take a road trip in Minnesota and you don't see something big that's made out of fiberglass you probably didn't go very far. It makes me wonder: Is the phenomenon of erecting giant versions of people, animals and objects on the sides of roads a global phenomenon, or are Minnesotans the only ones who get a kick out of this stuff? I don't know the answer to that, but I'd really like to think that somewhere along a French autoroute passing motorists are treated to the sight of an enormous wheel of brie.

Tennis in the Springtime

The French Open is well underway, and while there's nothing quite like sitting in the stands of Roland Garros with the Euro-chic tennis-loving crowd, Condé Nast Traveler's Daily Traveler blog is doing its best to bring the tournament to you. They've tapped tennis star Vera Zvonareva to blog about her experiences while in Paris for the Open. Though she had to withdraw from the competition because of an injury, she's not sitting around sulking. Instead, she's taking advantage of her free time to explore the city, proving that Paris in the springtime is also well underway.

Eiffel Tower Turns 120

It seems like only yesterday when I first laid eyes on the Eiffel Tower. I rounded the corner, it came into view, and I proceeded to do the most ridiculously embarrassing touristy thing one could possibly do upon seeing the Eiffel Tower: I screamed. A bit of an overreaction, maybe, but it really is a cool tower. And seeing something in real life that you think you know so well because you've seen it a million times in books, movies and magazines, but you really have no idea because 3D is so much better, can be a pretty intense experience.

Today marks the 120th birthday of Gustave Eiffel's world famous reaction-inducing creation. For more than a century, visitors to Paris have oohed and ahhed under, snapped photos, climbed the stairs and ridden the elevator of, picnicked under, dined on, (and screamed at) Paris' iconic iron tower. Some people think it's a cliché, but I love la Tour Eiffel. I may have moved past my days of freaking out at the sight of it, but rounding a corner only to be surprised by the soaring Eiffel Tower coming into view will never get old.

Second Time Around in Strasbourg

Mentioning Strasbourg in Monday's post really got me thinking. I started remembering all the things I loved about this border town, and wondering why I never went back. It's a perfect candidate for a second visit: I haven't been there in eight years, and I only spent a measly 2 days trying to cram in everything the city has to offer. Of course, there are a lot of cities and villages in France that I haven't seen in years, or that I only briefly passed through, but not all of them captured my attention quite like Strasbourg.

Almost everything I remember about this city that used to belong to the Germans, then the French, then the Germans, and finally the French again, is something I enjoyed. There was the little medieval neighborhood called La Petite France, with its adorable half-timbered houses and flowing canals, the gorgeous Gothic cathedral with only one spire and a really cool astronomical clock, the modern tramway that made navigating the city a breeze, the outdoor zoo that housed my favorite animal (pink flamingo), and the beautiful Rhine river on whose banks the city rests. Just about the only thing I didn't like was the cold. I went in December, before the famous Christmas markets opened, but well after the weather had turned wintry. This is not advised.

One of the things about Strasbourg I didn't get to experience as much as I would have liked is the regional food and drink. An undergrad's budget generally only allows for a baguette and cheese diet, which, admitedly, is not an entirely bad way to spend meals, but I'd really like to sample some of the city's finer dining options. With my (minimally) better post-grad school financial situation, I could enjoy the region's German-influenced (read: lots of pork) cuisine and sip on dry Alsacian reislings. Not to mention the fact that this part of France is the country's main beer-producing locale. Need I say more?

Urban Oasis

You might know that Teddy Roosevelt, 26th President of the United States, was a huge nature buff, but did you know there is an island in the Potomac named after him? Roughly positioned between the Rosslyn neighborhood of Arlington, VA, and such well known DC landmarks as the Kennedy Center and Georgetown, Theodore Roosevelt Island is a wild yet tranquil memorial to one of this country's greatest leaders. And since it's within walking distance of chez moi, I finally decided to check it out for myself. My objective for going there was twofold: to explore an offshore nature preserve, and to avoid the cherry blossom crowds that were sure to be clogging up the mainland. I'm happy to report success.

As an avid outdoorsman who enjoyed hunting, was considered a great naturalist, and led scientific expeditions to Africa and South America, I'd like to think Roosevelt would have been pleased to see his island memorial. Other than an enormous stone pavilion featuring a larger-than-life statue of the man himself, most of the island has been largely left to its own devices. An elevated boardwalk lets you explore the swamp and marsh without trampling all over it, while rock and sand outcroppings offer lots of opportunities for getting close to the water's edge. Highlights of the visit included spotting a slithering snake and watching ducks play in the mud. Downing a sandwich and some crackers on a park bench was pretty fun too.


In addition to being the 26th president, an avid outdoorsman, a hunter, and a naturalist, Teddy Roosevelt was also a conservationist. Lucky for us, he managed to grant federal protection for approximately 230 million acres of land. That's equivalent to the size of all of the East coast states from Maine to Florida. Today, as we try to pass legislation and change habits that would protect the environment, we should look to Roosevelt for inspiration. A century ago, he recognized the need to enjoy nature while at the same time acting as its steward. A man who was ahead of his time? Possibly. A president who deserves an island preserve in the Potomac? Most definitely.

Beyond Paris

I don't have to tell you, Parisian Spring reader, that I'm in love with Paris. It's pretty obvious. But sometimes I forget to say just how much I love the rest of France, too. In fact, my first French experience wasn't in Paris at all, it was in Cannes. The second time I lived in France I was also in the south, and during that five month stay I didn't even bother to go up to the capital. I'm not really ready to admit it right here, right now, but it's possible that there are parts of France that I actually prefer to Paris. To prove it, I recently wrote an article about some of those places. Check it out, and let me know what you think. Did I leave out any of your favorites?

Life Nouveau

There's nothing like a few out-of-towners to help you see your city in a new light. Fresh, friendly faces hungry to explore their surroundings can give you the push you need to step out of your bubble and mix it up a bit. A few months in DC had given me plenty of time to fall into a steady routine of same old, same old, which is why when three friends from back home flew in for a long weekend I prepared for a possible shakeup. They've since left, and my suspicions have been confirmed: four nights and five days later I feel like I've been given a new perspective on life in the Washington area.

It all started with a day of sightseeing. As we explored the newly minted Capitol Visitor Center and the nearby Library of Congress I wondered why on Earth I hadn't checked out these DC landmarks before. Then there was the neighborhood hot spot I've been meaning, but failing, to see for myself. I had read the good reviews and had listened with envy as fellow commuters waxed poetic about their weekend escapades, but it took a group of vacationers to get me to go. My guests even helped me discover two new coffee shops: one that is only three blocks from chez moi, and another that served the best vanilla latte I have ever had. Add in the new people we met and the places I already knew but had ignored for too long and I barely even remember my life pre-hostessing.


It's not that I'm unable to investigate my surroundings without being prompted by guests. On the contrary, traveling overseas and moving across the United States have instilled me with some pretty decent exploratory skills. Nevertheless, the added push from energized newcomers is always welcome. In Paris, friends who came to visit introduced me to Versailles, Père Lachaise Cemetery, and a French baking class. Not to mention all the little cafés, restaurants, and shops we frequented together. Without their ideas, plans, and guidebooks there are whole sections of the city I might never have seen. After a whirlwind long weekend, I finally had to say goodbye to my Minnesota friends. And although I quickly assumed my regular routine, it feels good to know that they left me with a couple of new tricks up my sleeve. If you're ever in DC and in need of the perfect vanilla latte, you know who to ask.

Barging Through France

Just when you start to feel pretty confident in your knowledge of all things French, along comes a little thing like barge cruises to knock you off your perch. Ok, so, the idea of a "barge cruise" isn't exactly a "little thing." On the contrary, barges by nature are generally fairly sizable objects. What I didn't know, is that these sizable objects can apparently be used to tour your sightseeing self around various corners of La Belle France. Thanks to a tweet by Julie of WhyGo France (mon dieu, how I love Twitter!), I discovered an article that introduced me to this intriguingly unique method of transportation, and reminded me that I still have so much more to learn.

Anyone who's been to Paris knows you can take boat rides along the Seine. Companies like Batobus, Bateaux Mouches, and Bateaux Vedettes du Pont Neuf are impossible to miss as you stroll along the river's banks, and renting boats for private events such as weddings, birthdays and all-you-can-drink parties is also a fairly common occurrence. I attended one such party last year that included a round trip ride from one end of the city to the other, which is a great way to get a different perspective on the French capital. Unfortunately, that night's weather didn't want to cooperate, making standing on the deck and admiring the city lights rather unpleasant. Fortunately, they had a wine tasting below deck. But barging through such regions as Aquitaine and Bretagne on a man-made system of canals? I had no idea.


A week-long cruise on the open seas has never appealed to me (seasickness, and all), but a week-long meandering barge cruise through the French countryside sounds like a positively delightful way to spend seven days, six nights. Between stopping to visit historic French villages, exploring the surrounding areas on bike, and dining while watching the scenery slowly drift by, I have a feeling I wouldn't ever want the trip to end. This is what I love about France: for a country that's slightly smaller than Texas, there's never a loss of new things to do, see, eat, drink or discover. One day you don't know about French barge cruises and the next day you do. My curiosity is definitely piqued. Fact-finding mission, anyone?

Diplomatic Sightseeing

Did you know that the document that ended the American Revolutionary War was signed in France? I'm slightly ashamed to admit that I had forgotten this useful bit of information (which was surely taught to me in a 5th grade history class) until just a few days ago, when I had the opportunity to view an original version of the treaty. On September 3, 1783, Benjamin Franklin, John Adams and John Jay met with a British Delegation at Parisian hotel to officially put an end to the conflict between Great Britain and her rebellious colonies. Today, you can see their treaty and a whole host of American diplomatic art by taking a little known Washington, DC tour: The U.S. Department of State Diplomatic Reception Rooms Tour.


One possible reason for the obscurity of the Diplomatic Reception Rooms Tour could be its reliance on highly organized travelers. Reservations for the tour must be made no fewer than 90 days in advance, a requirement that disqualifies uninformed and last-minute visitors alike. If you do manage to get a reservation, you won't be disappointed, as the rooms are filled with magnificent pieces dating back to the early years of the Republic. You'll find china used by Paul Revere, French wine glasses that once belonged to Martha Washington's sister, and one of Thomas Jefferson's writing desks thought to have been used during the drafting of the Declaration of Independence. Paintings on the walls range from scenes of the Pilgrims' landing to portraits of famous Revolutionaries. All of the pieces in the collection were donated, and the tour itself is free.

Of course, the highlight of the tour is the Treaty of Paris. Seeing the real signatures of Benjamin Franklin, John Jay, and John Adams is a truly moving experience. They're some of our Founding Fathers! And while we usually only read about them in the history books, seeing a document they created and actually touched reminds you that they existed as men, not simply as stories. You'll also get to see the painting I included in this post, which is Benjamin West's depiction of the signing of the Treaty of Paris. Famously unfinished, West had to abandon the project when British signatory, David Hartley, refused to sit for him. I guess he was a sore loser.

Travels Well With Others

One of the best things about living in the DC area is that you're never at a loss for things to do when guests come to visit. Museums, monuments, vibrant neighborhoods, restaurants whose menus span the globe and nearby cities like Baltimore and Philadelphia mean the only problem you'll have is not enough time. Virginia vineyards are particularly fun to show off, so when a dear friend and her husband came to town for the weekend I jumped at the chance to partake in a mini winery tour. Joined by two other DC-based friends (including one pregnant woman, nature's glorious way of providing the rest of us with a designated driver), we piled into a very cramped Honda Civic and headed for greener pastures, just beyond The Beltway.

The morning started out with a light snowfall followed by steady rain, but by noon had thankfully given way to sunny skies. With Chrysalis Vineyards, Barrel Oak Winery and Piedmont Vineyards and Winery all on the itinerary, there simply wasn't time for a weather disaster. We sipped on such specialties as peach and chocolate wine, only stopping to picnic with a newly bought Chardonnay. Unfortunately, unlike most of the tastings I've done at wineries in France, sipping in Virginia will cost you: anywhere from $3 to $6 for a multi-glass flite is standard, but some will waive the fee if you buy a bottle. Fortunately, the scenery of Virginia vineyards is magnificent, complete with rolling hills, winding gravel roads and patios offering majestic, sprawling views. I picked up a bottle of my favorite white at Chrysalis, and was delighted to hear that their new creamery should start selling cheeses by early summer. As if I needed another reason to return.

While the reds, whites, and sparklings all hit the spot, it was the company that truly made my day. Sure, I've done a fair amount of solo travel, loved it, and would recommend it to anyone who's looking to discover not only the sights, but a bit of themselves as well. It's just that you get a bit extra when you travel with friends. Between the belly laughs, photo-ops and inside jokes, you'll never want the trip to end. When it does end, you have shared memories that can be discussed, dissected and glorified for years. The whole wine tour gang is coming over to chez moi tonight for dinner, and I'm guessing we'll do exactly that.

Rememberance

It was a moment 70 years in the making. On Monday, nearly three quarters of a century after the Vichy government helped to deport tens of thousands of its Jewish citizens to concentration camps, France's top judicial body officially recognized France's role in the Holocaust. Though we tend to associate France with such lighthearted ideas as art, romance and fresh morning croissants, it's still a country that, like so many others, cannot ignore its grave past mistakes. In 1995, Jacques Chirac became the first French president to publicly admit France's role in La Shoah. With Monday's ruling by the Conseil d'Etat, his symbolic gesture is now a legal one as well.

Official statistics regarding religious groups in France do not exist, as it is against French law to take a census based on such ideas as race and religion, but estimates put France's Jewish community at approximately 500,000, making it the largest Jewish population of any Western European country. Those who wish to experience Jewish culture in Paris need look no further than the neighborhood known as Le Marais. Wander the rue des Rosiers where you can snack on Jewish pastries, eat at a kosher restaurant, and peruse a Jewish bookstore. The area becomes massively crowded on weekends, so a weekday visit would be best. Also nearby is The Museum of Jewish Art and History, the Musée Picasso, and Paris' oldest square, the Place des Vosges. Visisting Le Marais, with its countless boutiques, art galleries and historic sites, could keep you busy for weeks.

Can't make it to Paris to experience Jewish culture? Pick up a copy of Suite Française, by Irène Némirovsky. I recently included her unfinished work in a list of my favorite France-related books. A Ukrainian Jew who had written her way into France's literary circles, Ms. Némirovsky composed Suite Francaise, a novel detailing life in France during the German invasion, as the war was swirling around her. The book remains unfinished because she was arrested by the French police and sent to her death at Auschwitz before she could tell us how the story ended. Readers are left with a heartbreakingly realistic protrayal of life under attack during WWII. The courageous and just annoucement that came out of Paris on Monday sounds like the perfect occasion for rereading, and recontemplating, what was and what could have been.

Paper Trail

Currently living in the Washington, DC area? Itching to escape the partisan bickering, policy wrangling and maddeningly surreal Beltway traffic jams? Well, the Washington Post is here to help. On February 1, 2009, DC's most prolific paper released its Annual Travel Guide. Cleverly dubbed "Way to Go," it claims to be "the smart way to get from the Washington area to just about anywhere." Sounds pretty good, but what do you actually get for your Sunday paper fee? I decided to investigate.

For starters, you get a lot of tips for traveling on a budget. Of course, if you're anything like me and have spent most of your traveling life as either a student living off loans or an idealistic non-profit employee living off next to nothing, you don't really need these sections. You already know how to find hotel deals online and book a flight with a low-cost European carrier. The travel guide will also help you find your traveling niche, with ideas for seniors, families, vegetarians, and volunteers, among others. What, no category for unabashed Francophiles? There's a whole section devoted to giving you the lowdown on DC airports (my suggestion: go Reagan National), as well as information for those who still need to apply for a passport (my suggestion: prepare to hate your photo).

But my favorite section by far is the one they tucked away on the back page. "21 Regional Destinations" offers Washington-weary Washingtonians tips for nearby getaways. Sure, day trip and weekend guides are a dime a dozen, but I can't get enough of them. They remind me that travel doesn't have to mean trekking halfway across the globe, which is reassuring to someone with few funds and even fewer vacation days. Plus, they always remind me to take advantage of my surroundings. With just a short drive in either direction I could find peace and quiet on Tangier Island, buy Amish goods at a market in Maryland, or visit an area of West Virginia where scientists listen for sounds from outer space. Or I could just read about it in the paper.

Take Me Home, Country Roads

Leaving Washington can sometimes feel like re-entering the real world. This city is so all-consuming that it's easy to get completely wrapped up in what's happening here and forget what it's like "out there." When you finally do venture past the beltway, you remember what life was like before you became a Washingtonian. In general, this involves rediscovering all the wonderful things that don't exist in DC; things that got temporarily erased from your memory for the sake of survival in this alternative universe we call our nation's capital. I recently had the pleasure of becoming reacquainted with reality during a three day stint in Shepherdstown, West Virginia. This tiny, history-rich locale is only an hour and half from DC, but it might as well be on another planet. In addition to making me unable to get that John Denver song out of my head, it also provided just what I needed to remember what life is like on the outside.

For starters, I was overjoyed to have people in Shepherdstown say "Hello!" when they passed me in the hall. They also engaged in simple small talk, offered great customer service, and even (gasp!) smiled. I had forgotten that, in most other parts of the country, people are actually, well, friendly. Then there's the issue of prices. A bottle of wine at the Shepherdstown bar cost as much as just two glasses in DC. My favorite shampoo at the Shepherdstown pharmacy set me back a dollar less than it does at my neighborhood store. As I reacquainted myself with what life used to cost, my wallet did a little happy dance. But the best rediscovery surprise came after sundown. Gazing up at the sky I saw a never-ending sea of bright, twinkling stars. Stars! I had completely forgotten that they exist; that the sky could look so big and wondrous and sparkly. Even in cities like Minneapolis I was always able to spot at least the Big Dipper or Orien, but they're nowhere to be seen in Washington, which makes it easy for them to slip from your memory. Rediscovering that beautiful sight made me literally jump for joy.

While riding the shuttle between the conference site and my hotel, I asked the driver about historic downtown Shepherdstown. What was it like? Did it attract a lot of visitors? "Why don't I just take you there," he said. I gladly accepted, and we chatted about the area as he drove slowly down through downtown to let me look at the adorable shops, homes and restaurants that make up the old part of town. He even stopped to let me get out and take a few pictures before heading back towards the hotel. It was real world overload: friendliness, a free tour, and the stars shining overhead. I loved every minute of it. Shepherdstown, West Virginia wasn't quite what I had in mind for my first trip of the new year, but it turned out to be a perfect choice.

The Land of the Free

Thinking of moving to Washington, DC? Start saving. Now. Our nation's capital is a very expensive place to live. Ok, so it's not London expensive, Tokyo expensive, or even Manhattan expensive, but to a Midwestern gal who could return from whence she came and rent an entire house for what she currently pays for a one bedroom apartment, DC is a very expensive city. And it's not just housing. Food, fuel, entertainment, and dining out all cost significantly more here than they do in many other equally inhabitable areas. Thankfully, all is not lost for our beleaguered Washingtonians. In a financially favorable twist of fate, DC is positively chock full of free things to do, ensuring that residents and visitors alike can have a little fun without breaking the bank.

Wallet weary activity seekers should start with a trip to the National Mall. In addition to strolling along this grand open urban oasis, visitors can explore the Smithsonian museums, climb to the top of the Washington Monument, and pay their respects at the WWII, Korean War and Vietnam War memorials without spending a dime. Next there's the Kennedy Center, whose Millennium Stage offers a free performance (sometimes music, sometimes dance, sometimes something else) daily at 6pm. If you prefer to be outside, walk through the nature preserve on Theodore Roosevelt Island or ride your bike along the Mount Vernon Trail. Got kids? They'll love the National Zoo or morning storytime at the Politics and Prose Bookstore, and you'll love the nonexistent price tag. Don't forget about the seasonal freebies too. There's the Cherry Blossom Festival in Spring, Screen on the Green in Summer and the Dumbarton Oaks gardens are free of charge, though admittedly less colorful, from November to March.

All of this freeness is especially good for the thousands of students and unpaid interns who flock to DC for its high profile universities and career-launching reputation. Sadly, as a DC grad student myself I was too busy taking in the library to ever find time for taking in a show. Now that my studying days are behind me, I'm looking forward to nights at the Kennedy Center, weekends on the trails, and finally seeing the cherry blossoms in bloom. Anything to help me get over the sticker shock of paying rent.

The Darker Side of Paris

So, you've been to Paris. You've wandered the Louvre, stayed up late in the Latin Quarter and eaten Berthillon ice cream on the Ile Saint-Louis (I recommend caramel beurre salé). You've climbed the Eiffel Tower, sipped a café at Les Deux Magots, and shopped up a storm along Boulevard Haussman. You've hit all the major sites...or so you think. If you're like many of the millions of visitors Paris welcomes every year, you probably spent your touristing time above ground. But did you know there are a host of things to see below the City of Lights? I'm not talking about the metro; I'm talking about actual museums, guided tours and historical sites. These activities - which range from spooky to creepy to downright bizarre - are sure to be a memorable addition to any tourists' itinerary.

Your underground visit of Paris starts with an exploration of the "phantom" metro stations. During World War II, economic woes and a diminished ridership forced the city to close a fair number of stations. When the war ended, four of those stations - Arsenal, Champ de Mars, St. Martin and Croix-Rouge - remained closed and are known today as phantom stations. Arranging a visit might prove difficult, as the group that arranges them only organizes a few tours per year and their website is all in French. But sucess could pay off when you see a part of the city few have been privy too. An easier, albeit more frighentig, underground stop is the Catacombs. In the late 1700s, a cemetery in the Les Halles district became so full and mismanaged that it began inciting disease in its living neighbors. It was decided that the bones of the dead would be removed and relocated to underground quarries on the outskirts of town. Today, you can tour the dark, femur and skull-lined tunnels; a thoughoughly creepy and entirely entertaining tour.


Your underground visit ends in a place that might cause some to turn up their noses: the Paris Sewer Museum. Here you can discover the history of Parisian sewers, explore cleaning techniques, and walk through actual in-use sewer tunnels. Rumor has it the smell is surprisingly non-offensive.

Planning a trip to Paris in the near future? The addition of any one of these surprising tourist attractions to your itinerary is sure to make it a trip to remember. A seasoned visitor who thinks they've seen it all? If you haven't yet explored what's going on sous the city, you only know the half of it.

Photo credit: C.C.

My Favorite Place in DC

Washington, DC has a lot of beautiful buildings, memorials and monuments. But, in my humble opinion, none can match the peaceful grandeur of the Thomas Jefferson Memorial. Not only does the 19ft bronze statue of our 3rd president demonstrate that he was, and still is, a total bad-ass Founding Father, but the elegance of the building that houses him is highlighted by the fact that it is located on the other side of the tidal basin from the National Mall and its historical sites. The Thomas Jefferson Memorial stands alone, with nothing to distract viewers from its impressiveness.

As the sun was setting on Thanksgiving Day, I managed to snap a couple of nice photos of my favorite memorial. I like this one the best, and am continually amazed at the kinds of shots my 3 1/2 year old Canon PowerShot A510 still turns out. Enjoy.