How to Celebrate Bastille Day

On July 14, 1789, French citizens stormed the Bastille prison in Paris and set in motion events that would abolish feudalism and lead to the proclamation of the Declaration of the Rights of Man. Centuries later (220 years, to be exact), Bastille Day is the national holiday of France, and is celebrated all over the world by Frenchmen, Frenchwomen, and Francophiles alike. Feel like joining in the fun? Here are some suggestions for how to celebrate the Fête Nationale:

1. Attend the military parade that runs along the Champs-Elysées. Though it is often ignorantly bashed in the U.S., the French military is in fact one of the world's most elite, sophisticated, and technologically-advanced fighting forces. Check out their equipment, their soldiers, and wave after wave of jaw-dropping fighter jet and helicopter flyovers.

2. Catch the dazzling fireworks display that takes place at the Eiffel Tower. Pack your baguette and cheese picnic and claim your spot on the Champs de Mars in the early evening. Be sure to sit lined up with the center of the tower for the best view. One warning: the crowds can be downright scary as you try to get home after the show. I did not enjoy this part of last year's festivities, and I attribute the frenzied, run-you-over madness to the day's legacy of violent prison storming.

3. Not in France? Eat at your favorite local French restaurant. Many will probably be offering special deals on drinks and/or food in honor of le 14 juillet. For example, Napoleon in DC is offering free Champagne!

4. Watch a French or France-themed movie. I like Marie Antoinette for the French Revolution preview, or Casablanca for the rousing, German soldiers-drowning out rendition of La Marseillaise. You'll be shouting "Vive la France!" in no time.

5. Wear red, white and blue. If you're an American, it's possible that you have plenty of clothes in these colors hanging around from the recent Independence Day celebration. Get some additional use of of them by paying hommage to the drapeau tricolore.

Joyeux Jour de la Bastille!

Eiffel Tower Turns 120

It seems like only yesterday when I first laid eyes on the Eiffel Tower. I rounded the corner, it came into view, and I proceeded to do the most ridiculously embarrassing touristy thing one could possibly do upon seeing the Eiffel Tower: I screamed. A bit of an overreaction, maybe, but it really is a cool tower. And seeing something in real life that you think you know so well because you've seen it a million times in books, movies and magazines, but you really have no idea because 3D is so much better, can be a pretty intense experience.

Today marks the 120th birthday of Gustave Eiffel's world famous reaction-inducing creation. For more than a century, visitors to Paris have oohed and ahhed under, snapped photos, climbed the stairs and ridden the elevator of, picnicked under, dined on, (and screamed at) Paris' iconic iron tower. Some people think it's a cliché, but I love la Tour Eiffel. I may have moved past my days of freaking out at the sight of it, but rounding a corner only to be surprised by the soaring Eiffel Tower coming into view will never get old.

Paris of the Future

What will the Paris we know and love look like in the future? Well, if French President, Nicolas Sarkozy, has anything to say about it, Paris will be a modern, green metropolis that could stretch as far as the English Channel. Sarkozy recently laid out a proposal to undertake such changes as the creation of an overground, 24-hour fast rail service that surrounds the city and connects it with destinations like Charles de Gaulle Airport, improvement of the city's existing high-traffic rail routes, moving Paris' judicial district from Ile de la Cité to the 18th arrondissement, and lifting the ban on building skyscrapers in the city center. It's an attempt not only to prepare the French capital for the future, but also to un-isolate the troubled, and currently very isolated, banlieues. You know, where they had the riots in 2005.

Your first reaction to Sarkozy's "Grand Paris" plan might be to say that it won't work. After all, the French aren't known for their penchant for change. But this wouldn't be the first time someone tried to revolutionize the look and feel of Paris. Haussmann did it back in the second half of the 1800s, when the city still looked positively Medieval. A mess of narrow streets and winding alleyways, Napolean III commissioned Haussmann to modernize the Parisian layout. He created a city of long, wide boulevards, had the Gare de Lyon and the Gare du Nord constructed, and insisted on a building style that came to be known as the Haussmannian Façade. If they can do all that in the 19th century, why not now?



I like the idea of greening Paris even further; creating more public transportation and improving what already exists. But I'm not sure how I feel about allowing skyscrapers in the city center. The fact that Paris has no tall buildings (save for some hideously ugly exceptions) gives it its charm. The same thing is often said about DC, which also has a limit on building height. On the other hand, Parisians of the mid-18th century probably thought the narrow streets gave the city its charm, too, and yet it's a good thing someone had the foresight to change that traffic-congested, disease-ridden landscape. I mean, who doesn't like to stroll along the impressive Boulevard Haussmann on a Saturday morning, pick up a croissant and coffee breakfast and head off for some afternoon shopping at Galeries Lafayette? Many years and many euros spent from now we just might wonder how anyone could have lived in the Paris of today.

Fish Tales

I was all geared up to do a post about April Fool's Day in France until I saw that Julie from WhyGo France beat me to it. Tant pis! She did a much better job of explaining Le Poisson d'Avril than I ever could, so everyone wins out in the end. You get to read about the history à la française of this prankster holiday, Julie gets a little more traffic to her site, and I get to relax instead of doing a bunch of research into why fish and the French go together on April 1st. Hint: it has nothing to do with breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

Rememberance

It was a moment 70 years in the making. On Monday, nearly three quarters of a century after the Vichy government helped to deport tens of thousands of its Jewish citizens to concentration camps, France's top judicial body officially recognized France's role in the Holocaust. Though we tend to associate France with such lighthearted ideas as art, romance and fresh morning croissants, it's still a country that, like so many others, cannot ignore its grave past mistakes. In 1995, Jacques Chirac became the first French president to publicly admit France's role in La Shoah. With Monday's ruling by the Conseil d'Etat, his symbolic gesture is now a legal one as well.

Official statistics regarding religious groups in France do not exist, as it is against French law to take a census based on such ideas as race and religion, but estimates put France's Jewish community at approximately 500,000, making it the largest Jewish population of any Western European country. Those who wish to experience Jewish culture in Paris need look no further than the neighborhood known as Le Marais. Wander the rue des Rosiers where you can snack on Jewish pastries, eat at a kosher restaurant, and peruse a Jewish bookstore. The area becomes massively crowded on weekends, so a weekday visit would be best. Also nearby is The Museum of Jewish Art and History, the Musée Picasso, and Paris' oldest square, the Place des Vosges. Visisting Le Marais, with its countless boutiques, art galleries and historic sites, could keep you busy for weeks.

Can't make it to Paris to experience Jewish culture? Pick up a copy of Suite Française, by Irène Némirovsky. I recently included her unfinished work in a list of my favorite France-related books. A Ukrainian Jew who had written her way into France's literary circles, Ms. Némirovsky composed Suite Francaise, a novel detailing life in France during the German invasion, as the war was swirling around her. The book remains unfinished because she was arrested by the French police and sent to her death at Auschwitz before she could tell us how the story ended. Readers are left with a heartbreakingly realistic protrayal of life under attack during WWII. The courageous and just annoucement that came out of Paris on Monday sounds like the perfect occasion for rereading, and recontemplating, what was and what could have been.

The Dream Lives On

If his life hadn't come to a tragic end in 1968, Martin Luther King, Jr. would now be 80 years old. As we take today to celebrate the life and life's work of this iconic civil rights leader, it's worth noting his inexorable connection to Washington, DC. DC is of course the city where Dr. King gave his stirring "I Have a Dream" speech. Standing on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial during the March on Washington in 1963, he electrified the crowd of thousands with his words of hope for a more equal future. Visitors to the memorial can see an etching in the stone at the exact spot where he stood and looked out at the crowd. If you ever find yourself at the Lincoln Memorial, take a moment to find that spot, stand there, and look out across the reflecting pool towards the Washington Monument and the Capitol. As you take in the amazing view, you'll begin to think about what it must have felt like to be there on that day in 1963. A lot of tourists, and I imagine even local residents, overlook the words that have been written in marble at Lincoln's front door. It's a shame: the stone marker dedicated to Dr. King might not be the biggest, most impressive sight in DC, but it is undoubtedly one of the most inspiring.

The Darker Side of Paris

So, you've been to Paris. You've wandered the Louvre, stayed up late in the Latin Quarter and eaten Berthillon ice cream on the Ile Saint-Louis (I recommend caramel beurre salé). You've climbed the Eiffel Tower, sipped a café at Les Deux Magots, and shopped up a storm along Boulevard Haussman. You've hit all the major sites...or so you think. If you're like many of the millions of visitors Paris welcomes every year, you probably spent your touristing time above ground. But did you know there are a host of things to see below the City of Lights? I'm not talking about the metro; I'm talking about actual museums, guided tours and historical sites. These activities - which range from spooky to creepy to downright bizarre - are sure to be a memorable addition to any tourists' itinerary.

Your underground visit of Paris starts with an exploration of the "phantom" metro stations. During World War II, economic woes and a diminished ridership forced the city to close a fair number of stations. When the war ended, four of those stations - Arsenal, Champ de Mars, St. Martin and Croix-Rouge - remained closed and are known today as phantom stations. Arranging a visit might prove difficult, as the group that arranges them only organizes a few tours per year and their website is all in French. But sucess could pay off when you see a part of the city few have been privy too. An easier, albeit more frighentig, underground stop is the Catacombs. In the late 1700s, a cemetery in the Les Halles district became so full and mismanaged that it began inciting disease in its living neighbors. It was decided that the bones of the dead would be removed and relocated to underground quarries on the outskirts of town. Today, you can tour the dark, femur and skull-lined tunnels; a thoughoughly creepy and entirely entertaining tour.


Your underground visit ends in a place that might cause some to turn up their noses: the Paris Sewer Museum. Here you can discover the history of Parisian sewers, explore cleaning techniques, and walk through actual in-use sewer tunnels. Rumor has it the smell is surprisingly non-offensive.

Planning a trip to Paris in the near future? The addition of any one of these surprising tourist attractions to your itinerary is sure to make it a trip to remember. A seasoned visitor who thinks they've seen it all? If you haven't yet explored what's going on sous the city, you only know the half of it.

Photo credit: C.C.

My Favorite Place in DC

Washington, DC has a lot of beautiful buildings, memorials and monuments. But, in my humble opinion, none can match the peaceful grandeur of the Thomas Jefferson Memorial. Not only does the 19ft bronze statue of our 3rd president demonstrate that he was, and still is, a total bad-ass Founding Father, but the elegance of the building that houses him is highlighted by the fact that it is located on the other side of the tidal basin from the National Mall and its historical sites. The Thomas Jefferson Memorial stands alone, with nothing to distract viewers from its impressiveness.

As the sun was setting on Thanksgiving Day, I managed to snap a couple of nice photos of my favorite memorial. I like this one the best, and am continually amazed at the kinds of shots my 3 1/2 year old Canon PowerShot A510 still turns out. Enjoy.

Visit at Your Own Risk

My favorite museum in DC used to be the Smithsonian Institute's National Museum of American History. I say "used to" because when it shut down a couple of weeks after I moved here in August 2006 I kind of forgot about it. Out of sight, out of mind, so to speak. This area is blessed with an amazing collection of museums, many of them offering free entry, so it was easy to move on. But when I returned to town last month and heard that after two years of renovation the museum would finally reopen on November 21st, I was looking forward to putting it back on my favorites list. Unfortunately, a visit to the supposedly new and improved space brought only disappointment. Two years and $85 million dollars later, I couldn't for the life of me find anything that had changed for the better.

Maybe I went into the museum with expectations that were much too high. After that kind of time and financial commitment I expected to see a total transformation. I wanted new and improved exhibits, technological advances in museum displays and a space that was open and easy to navigate. What I found was a museum not unlike the one that I had visited multiple times before it closed. The exhibits were the same, nothing in the displays indicated the best in museum technology and the halls that led to various sections were narrow and dark. The old National Museum of American History featured a dramatic entrance, replete with the original Star Spangled Banner; the flag that inspired Francis Scott Key to write a poem that would later become our national anthem. Now, the flag is hidden in a room just off the entrance. And you wouldn't have believed the line. Something that used to be visible to all with little or no difficulty is now only accessible to those willing to stand and wait.

Needless to say, I left the museum feeling incredibly disappointed. I didn't see a single thing that impressed me or would make me go back. Granted, my visit did happen to fall on the Saturday after Thanksgiving and only the second weekend after the museum's opening, so the crowds were pretty intense. Not waiting to get in and not having to fight to see displays might improve any future experience. And I did enjoy seeing the American Presidents exhibit as well as Kermit the Frog. But that doesn't change the fact that everything I saw I had already seen before. Where was the innovation? Where were the new featured artifacts? And what about the fact that the ladies' room was tiny? You spend $85 million dollars and can't build a restroom with more than four stalls so as to avoid wait lines that wrap around the corner? It's a good thing about that expansive DC museum collection. I can still get my history/art/fun facts fix without having to go to the one that used to be my favorite.

Colonial Escape

Living in the Washington, DC area is a dream come true for day-trippers. Venturing less than 100 miles in any direction will bring you up close and personal with Revolutionary and Civil War battlefields, Atlantic coast beaches, George Washington's Mount Vernon estate, Virginia wineries, and a host of pick-your-own orchards. There is also an array of historic colonial-style villages that hearken back to a quieter time in East Coast life. Replete with riding stables, locally-run cafes, shops and markets, friendly residents, delectable restaurants and plenty of adorableness to go around, small towns provide a unique and refreshing day trip experience. Looking for exactly that after a couple of weeks in the nation's capital, I reserved a Zipcar and headed out to Middleburg, Virginia; population 600, charm factor, infinitesimal.

Originally established in 1787 by Levin Powell, a Revolutionary War hero who purchased the land from one of George Washington's first cousins, the area had served as a rest stop for traders since the early 1730s. Located halfway between Alexandria and Winchester on a well-traveled trading route, Powell chose "Middleburg" as a perfectly descriptive town name. Today, the village's historic main street is lined with shops selling antiques, high-end clothes, locally produced edible goods and fine housewares. As a wealthy enclave for area elites, Middleburg has welcomed such famous residents as Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor. But don't let the rich façade dissuade you from visiting. Beneath it all is a welcoming atmosphere, friendly townspeople and activities suited to any budget.

With so many good day trip possibilities surrounding DC, deciding on a destination is no easy task. And while I'm tempted to keep trying new cities, sites and activities, a part of me can't wait to get back to Middleburg. I don't think it's possible to tire of browsing the stores, admiring the surrounding landscape or enjoying a hot chocolate at a local coffee shop. Middleburg feels like a complete escape from DC. It's almost like entering a different world; one where life moves a little slower and with plenty of class. Battlefields and presidential estates will just have to wait.

A River Runs Through It

For a quiet state of only 5 million people tucked away in the Upper Midwest, Minnesota has a fair number of claims to fame. We have the country's largest indoor shopping mall, we're the only state that didn't vote for Ronald Reagan in the 1984 presidential election, and Judy Garland, Bob Dylan and Prince were all born here. But a more significant fun fact about Minnesota is that the Mississippi River - a river that runs nearly the entire north-south length of the United States - finds its source in Lake Itasca in northern Minnesota. This legendary and historically important river has played a role not only in the country's history but in our state's history as well. A recent viewing of the Mississippi as it runs through Minneapolis gave me a renewed appreciation for this truly mighty waterway.


As they generally do all across the globe, original settlements in what is today known as Minnesota grew up along its most important waterways. Dakota Sioux Indians, French explorers, the United States Army at Fort Snelling, and westward-moving pioneers are just some of the groups that have called the banks of the Mississippi home. But the river really earned its keep between 1880 an 1930, when its only waterfall, St. Athony Falls, helped turn Minneapolis into the Flour Milling Capital of the World. As grain from all over the Great Plains was shipped into the city via railroad, mills powered by the falls worked furiously to supply flour to a hungry and growing country. Sawmills, woolen mills, iron works and other trades also sprung up in Minneapolis as a result of the river's hydropower. The city's population exploded, and continued to grow into a major business and arts center even after the glory years of the grain industry had come to an end.

Today, the Mississippi as it winds through Minneapolis is lined with parks, trails, restaurants, arts and historical centers and luxury condominiums. Vestiges of the milling years can still be seen, and recent development projects have once again turned the river banks into a center of activity. Inextricably linked to our history and currently redefining our present, the Mighty Mississippi will continue to shape this state's trajectory for as long as it finds its source in a small glacial lake called Itasca.

Art to the Extreme

I haven't been very nice to the Musée du Louvre on this blog. I've labeled it "dark and cavernous," called some of its famous artwork "overrated," and even suggested that a visit to Leonardo da Vinci's grave was more enjoyable than a visit to the Louvre. Well, I'm here today to make up for all my museum bad-mouthing. Truth be told, The Louvre is impressive in many ways, including its scale, scope, and history. A Sunday visit to France's most famous museum has re-opened my eyes to just how amazing and worthy of our attention it truly is.

The Louvre was not built with the original intention of being used as a museum. At one time, the enormous structure served as a royal palace, housing many of France's kings and queens until Louis XIV decided to move to Versailles in 1672. The oldest parts of the structure date back to the 12th century, when a fortress was built to protect the city. Remnants of that original building are still visible and open to the public. When the palace officially opened its doors as a museum in 1973, admission was free and priority entrance was given to artists. Today, the Louvre is home to approximately 35,000 pieces and boasts 60,000 square meters of exhibition space. It would take a lifetime to see all that the Louvre has to offer, but even with one visit you can see some of its more famous works. Be sure to check out the Venus de Milo sculpture, Code of Hammurabi tablet, Eugene Delacroix's enormous painting, Liberty Leading the People, and if you can manage to squeeze through the crowds, da Vinci's Mona Lisa.

With 8.3 million visitors passing through its doors in 2007, I know that I am not the only one who would sing the Louvre's praises. And while the museum received a ridiculous amount of visitors on any given day, once you step out of the entrance area it does not feel crowded execpt, of course, by the Mona Lisa. The museum is so enormous, that even the busiest days (such as the first Sunday of the month, when admission is free) you cannot pack all of its rooms with people. Oh, and that whole "dark and cavernous" jab I took? I think this photo of the entrance hall shows how unfair that comment really was. Some of the galleries might be a bit closed in, but on the whole the museum is a bright and stunning piece of work. The Louvre is a must-see for those who are passing through Paris, and it would be a worthy addition to anyone's must-do travel list. There, I said it.

Allons Enfants de la Patrie!...

The streets of Paris are quiet today...except for the Champs-Elysées. As the French celebrate their national holiday, the entire city is focused on the parade that follows this symbolic route. Navigating the rest of the city on bike is a breeze; all of the streets within proximity of the main event are literally deserted. No cars, no pedestrians, no other bikes, and no Parisians, who generally prefer to leave summer in Paris to the tourists. But wander closer to the parade and you'll find yourself in a mass of humanity. Patriotic music blares, spectators climb trees and give each other shoulder rides in order to get a better look, and countless French police, gendarmes and soldiers ensure order. Bastille Day, which commemorates the storming of the Bastille prison (a sign of monarchical absolute power) by French commoners, is well under way.

One of the things you'll notice about the July 14th parade is the heavy military influence. No dancing clowns, beauty queens or candy throwers here; just rows and rows of officers, the French Republican Guard, and even foreign heads of state. Some non-military types are thrown into the mix as well, most notably firefighters, but this is without a doubt an event for showcasing the armed forces. Nevertheless, the mood remains festive. You can even take your picture with obliging soldiers who show off their tanks and trucks to the public before the parade. The most impressive part of the spectacle is the coordinated flyover of some serious-looking military planes. First there are the ones trailing red, white and blue smoke, then group after group of stealth fighters, bombers and other large aircraft. The noise and the speed are incredible. And don't forget to keep an eye out for the grand finale: a military helicopter procession that starts at La Défense, zooms over the Arc de Triomphe, up the Champs-Elysees and ends by dropping parachutists with French flag decorated chutes who land at Concorde. Talk about making an entrance!



Besides thoroughly enjoying myself, I learned a few important lessons at today's Bastille Day parade. First, it's important to arrive early. There were so many people lining the Champs that I was never able to get a really good, close view of the procession. If I'm ever here on this day again, I will pack a few croissants and my camera and set out right away in the morning to claim my front-row spot. Secondly, you don't want to try anything stupid in the crowd. When the Le Président de la République, the U.N. Secretary General, and various other V.I.P. guests are in attendance, security doesn't get taken lightly. Most interesting were the snipers on the roof of the Grand Palais. Lastly, after today's extraordinary celebratory events, I can't wait to see tonight's extraordinary celebratory events: fireworks shooting off of the Eiffel Tower. Somehow, I think it promises to be anything but mundane.

O! Say Can You See...

My typical 4th of July schedule looks like this: wake up, go to a bbq, eat hot dogs, eat corn on the cob, eat potato salad, drink a beer, watch some fireworks, feel patriotic and get embarrassingly teary eyed, go home and eat some more potato salad. But today is not a typical 4th of July for me. In fact, it's the most atypical Independence Day I've ever experienced. For the first time in my life, I will fête my country's birthday while not actually in my country. And while it's fitting that I will spend this great summer holiday in a country that had a lot to do with helping us win our independence, I will definitely miss the fun red, white and blue celebrations back home. But all hope is not lost! Boasting a significant American ex-pat community, and historic ties with the U.S., Paris offers plenty of ways to celebrate the 4th. You just have to know where to look.

You could start by visiting the many statues, plaques and other random locations dedicated to the United States and its famous citizens. Thomas Jefferson and Benjamin Franklin would be good choices, as would Place des Etats-Unis where you could even set up a portable grill and have an impromptu picnic. If you're of the religious persuasion, go to the American Church of Paris. If you like art, treasure hunt in the Louvre or the Musee d'Orsay for American artists. If you like to read, browse the English-language books at Brentano's or Shakespeare and Co. If you get hungry again, visit Thanksgiving, an American grocery store named after another great holiday from back home. When you get thirsty, pull up a chair at Harry's New York Bar or Bar Hemingway at the Ritz; try to remember all the lyrics to the Star Spangled Banner on your walk home.

As for myself, I'll be celebrating the 4th by participating in one of the most classic American pastimes: a road trip. Today marks the start of a one-week trip that includes visits to Deauville in the north, the Mediterranean in the south, and lots of unplanned pit stops along the way. There's just something about hitting the open road that no American can resist: places to go, things to see, and all the time and freedom in the world to do both. So here's to you, Land of the Free and Home of the Brave. Happy 232nd!

Hommage

After spending a couple of months in France, you might start to get the feeling that Charles de Gaulle must have been the greatest Frenchman ever. It's not because you've been studying his rallying WWII speeches or his record as Président de la Republique. It's not because you know all about his personal life, his hobbies or his interests. It's not even because French people regularly tell you they admire him. No, it's simply because his name and likeness are everywhere, and I mean everywhere.

For starters, there is the Charles de Gaulle Airport; a busy and confusing 70s-era monstrosity on the outskirts of Paris. Once you find your way out of the airport and make it into the city you might come across Avenue de Charles de Gaulle or the Charles de Gaule - Etoile metro station. You will see his face on magazine covers and hear his contributions to France discussed on TV political shows. You will also start to notice the countless statues, busts, and plaques in Paris that are dedicated to the former general. Speaking of the military, France is one of the few countries to own an aircraft carrier, and yep, they named it the Charles de Gaulle.

After awhile, you sort of become immune to good ol' Charles. You might start to pass squares, buildings and bridges named after him without the slightest reaction. But even the most jaded of de Gaulle observers can't help admiring the Charles de Gaulle statue that stands near the entrance to the Grand Palais, right on the Champs-Elysées. High up on his pedestal, walking as if he is still on a mission to serve his beloved France, de Gaulle gives off an inspiring air of great importance. He's a man of action, a tireless crusader and a fearless leader. He looks as though any minute now he will step down from his perch, march up to the Assemblée Nationale, and start giving orders. Maybe he really is the greatest Frenchman ever. At the very least, he looks good in bronze.

Kind of Scary

Just like any other place on Earth, Paris is subject to the rhythms of human life. People are born in Paris, and people die in Paris. Some of those who die end up in one of the world's most famous final resting places: Le Cimitière du Père-Lachaise. With its monstrous mausoleums, winding paths and countless famous inhabitants, Père-Lachaise is a morbid must-see for many tourists.

If you are among the many who visit this French cemetery, don't go on a really hot day. You will walk. A lot. Père-Lachaise is enormous, with seemingly endless graves of all shapes and sizes. American visitors will notice a huge difference between this Parisian burial site and the cemeteries they're used to seeing at home. There's noticeably less open green space and more large above-ground memorials. Entire families are buried in some plots, and each site butts right up against its neighbor. The resident's list reads like a who's-who of French cultural society. Molière, Delacroix, Piaf, Balzac, Pissarro and countless other well-knowns are all buried here. There are some notable foreigners as well including Oscar Wilde and Gertrude Stein. But most people come to see the grave of Jim Morrison, the Doors' frontman who died in Paris in 1971. His grave is fairly simple, surrounded by a gate, and practically tucked away from sight. There were guards nearby keeping an eye on the the tourists as they lined up to get a picture. I mostly just felt sorry for the guy next to him on whose grave many a Morrison fan (unable to reach the singer's stone itself) has scribbled or etched a message to their fallen hero.

At first you might feel strange wandering around a cemetery as if it were just any other tourist site. It is, after all, filled with dead people. But once you get over the initial unease, strolling through Père-Lachaise is a beautifully haunting experience. It's filled not only with graves but also with unique sculptures, amusing details and touching memorials to historic events. Plus, it's kind of fun to stumble upon the eternal home of someone you learned about in 10th grade history class.

Not All Castles are Created Equal

Word to the wise: don't go to the Château de Versailles on a holiday weekend. Last Thursday was a national holiday as is today, which means that a lot of French people took off Friday and made a nice long vaction of it. With the absolutely gorgeous weather we've been having, many Parisians have fled the noise and crowds of the city to join the noise and crowds of the beach. Many are also playing tourist in their own county, visiting sites and cities along with foreigners from all over the world. Guessing from the impossibly long and slow-moving line at the entrance of the famous home of Louis XIV, Versailles is one the top of many of their must-see lists.

I went to Versailles early Saturday morning with a friend from Minneapolis who just wrapped up a 12 day stint in France. Upon seeing the line (and lack thereof for the gardens), and remarking on the tragedy of being inside when the sun is shining, we decided to forgo the castle for the gardens. This was undoubtedly the right decision. Filled with manicured hedges, rare trees, blooming flowers and magnificent fountains, the royal gardens were a sight to behold. Even better were the properties that make up la Domaine de Marie-Antoinette. Located on the opposite side of the gardens from the castle, France's most famous queen had her own little vacation destination only a short carriage ride away from home. Best of all was the Queen's Hameau; a series of quaint little country cottages where she could get away from it all and enjoy the simpler life of a peasant.

Versailles is definitely the most well-known château in France, but I don't think it is the most worthy of a visit. The crowds were incredible, the line for the ladies' room was ridiculous and the whole operation felt very commercialized, like a 16th century Disneyland. I was much more impressed by the castles that I visited in the Loire Valley. Versailles is right on the edge of Paris, so the area around it is bustling with roads and the activity of a busy suburb. The Loire castles are isolated and quiet and give you feeling of being in a entering a different world. Even those that are not in the county are in cute little villages rather than unimaginative commuter towns. We enjoyed the gardens and I'm glad I saw the castle if only because it's something you should do while in Paris, but I'm not sure I'll go back to see the interior. In this city with so many amazing things to do and see, one cannot afford to waste time waiting in lines.

Americans in Paris, Part Two

Yeah, we get the bad news here too. The American economy is in a crisis, the dollar is sinking fast against the euro with no end in sight, and traveling to Europe is becoming less and less of a possibility for those in the U.S. With all this doomsday talk on television, in the papers, and from Europeans themselves (who seem to take a bit too much pleasure in the current state of affairs) you'd think that finding an American tourist in Paris would be a near impossibility. Aren't they all holed up back home crying over the miserable state of their worthless currency?

A quick stop at all the major tourist spots in Paris quickly demonstrates that this couldn't be further from the truth. In the past few weeks I have seen and heard so many Americans that I'm beginning to wonder if I haven't shot for Paris but landed in New York instead. While sitting down by the Seine while enjoying a ham and cheese on baguette I was passed by nothing but groups of American tourists of all ages. The Musée d'Orsay was practically crawling with Americans, far outnumbering any of the other nationalities I noticed. Old ladies, young families, student groups and singletons alike; they were all there soaking up European culture without a care in the world. I even saw quite a few while visiting châteaux in the Loire Valley last month. They are not holed up back home. They are right here in the land of the all-powerful euro!

I can imagine a number of explanations for why so many Americans are coming to France despite the less than favorable exchange rate. It could be that, hailing from a credit-happy country, they're simply putting everything on plastic with no thought of the future consequences. Or maybe they booked the trip before the dollar sunk so low and are now stuck in a vacation they can't back out of no matter what the cost. But I'd like to think it has something more to do with that undeniable can-do American spirit. It's the kind of spirit that makes Americans stand up in the face of seemingly unsurmountable odds and say "I want to see the Eiffel Tower and I'm not going to let some hot-shot new currency tell me I can't!" After all, the ancestors of many of today's Americans were people who didn't let a silly little thing like an ocean stand in the way of their dream of a better life. Why should their descendants let a silly little thing like an exchange rate stand in the way of their dream of eating a better croissant?

It's All Relative, Part Two

I recently received a care package from home which, at my request, included a copy of the latest edition of Mpls/St. Paul Magazine. I couldn't wait to devour my favorite hometown read especially since it was the special collector's edition dedicated to the 150th birthday of the state of Minnesota. I marveled at the late-1800s photos of flour mills, river projects and women on in long dresses enjoying the winter weather on ice skates. I was proud to belong to a place that had such a long, fascinating history. "We've come so far," I thought; imagining what life was like so long ago. But my bubble of joy and amazement was burst with one little oh-so-true comment by an unimpressed Frenchman. When told about the birthday of Minnesota he replied with a dry, "150 years? That's it?"

His remark reveals an important fact we Americans should never forget. When it comes to history, the French have us beat. Their existence as a separate country dates back to the 9th century. France survived The High Middle Ages, The Black Death, and who knows how many wars with England. There are people in Paris who live in buildings that were built in the 17th century. The Construction of Notre Dame Cathedral, one of France's most recognizable sites, was completed in 1345. Yes, 1345.

Now, 150 years is nothing to laugh at. Minnesotans have accomplished a lot since they officially joined the union in 1858. But say "1858" to a French person and you might as well be saying "yesterday." On the metro this morning, while trying in vain to avoid the bad habit of reading over other people's shoulders, I happened to catch a glance at a newspaper headline that caught my attention. It read, "Mont-St. Michel celebrates its 1300th birthday." Well, Minnesotans, if we want to celebrate that birthday we'd better hope we live to see the year 3158. Yes, 3158.

Historic Moment

Today I did something that I rarely if ever do. I deliberately put myself in a situation where I knew there would be a crowd of people, and potentially a very unfriendly crowd at that: I went to the Champs-Élysées to watch the Olympic Flame make it's way through Paris. How could I not? After hearing on the news last night that in London it had run into protests, extinguishing attempts, and man-handling policemen, I just knew this was something not to be missed; a once in a lifetime event. I'm no fan of crowds, but I made my way there anyways, and I don't regret it for one minute.

When you watch these types of big events on the news - flame runnings, marathons, the Tour de France - you get the feeling that there's a constant stream of excitement wherever people are present. Well, that's because the news clip they show is only a couple of seconds long. Yes, for a couple of seconds, it's very exciting. When the flame ran past my staked-out location there were cheers of praise from the Chinese mobs, shouts of "libéré le Tibet!" from the protesters, and oohs and ahhs of jaw-dropped amazement from the rest of us. French police and gendarmes were everywhere, the crowd was alive and calm at the same time. All in all, it was a pretty cool experience.

But the coolness lasted about 30 seconds, max. For the most part, we just waited around for something to happen. I got there early so as to snag a good spot. I was right up against the barrier, giving me the perfect angle from which to view the flame. It ran right in front of me! And to see that all I had to do was wait two hours in the cold, wind, and occasional rain along with hundreds of others who had the same crazy idea.

I wish I could show you a picture or a video of the flame as it passed in front of me, but my batteries died not two seconds before it arrived. All I have is a picture of the crowd and a massive French police motorcade. Talk about bad timing. On the other hand, maybe some things are better appreciated when you see them with your own eyes rather than through the lens of your camera. The image of the 2008 Olympic Flame might not be recorded on my digital memory chip, but it will be ingrained in my mind's memory for a long time to come.