Showing posts with label travel tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel tips. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

If You Must Go to France in August...

Would most Francophones, Francophiles, and other French partisans out there agree with me that August is the worst month for a trip to France?  You know the drill:  Paris empties of Parisians, the Côte d'Azur overflows with tourists, hotels raise their prices, and stores take their full month of "fermeture annuelle."  I once came across an ice cream shop in the St.-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood that announced it would be closing for the month of August.  An ice cream shop.  Closed in August.  If that's not a sign to turn back now, I don't know what is.


But if you must go to France in August, it's possible you can avoid much of the month's nonsense by steering clear of some of the more traditional end-of-summer locales (i.e. Paris and beaches).  In August 2008 I spent a weekend in the Champagne region touring caves and drinking lots of bubbly.  Absent were the hordes of tourists that plague cities like Nice and Cannes this time of year.  Instead of fighting for a little scrap of sand, we played tennis on wide open courts, signed up for a private tasting at Moët and Chandon, and dined alongside locals. 


If you must go to France in August, try breaking away from the pack.  Nearly all of France is a tourist destination, but some areas are more crowded at certain times of the year (example: Strasbourg and its famous Christmas market in December). Why not look at August as the time to explore outside of Paris?   And why not save your beach vacation for a more tranquil time?  August could be the perfect time to eat and drink your way through Burgundy, hike the Pyrennes, or sample French beers in Lille.

Or maybe it's the perfect time to plan your September trip to France. 

Sunday, July 11, 2010

Review: jetBlue

In the span of about three weeks I will have flown jetBlue no less than four times: NYC-SEA, SEA-NYC, NYC-LAX, and LAX-NYC.  I will also have crossed the entire United States four times, which is no easy feat considering I could probably have gotten to London in the time it takes me to get to the West Coast, so it has been a relief to spend those airborne hours in the comfort of my leather, satellite TV-equipped, leg room a-plenty jetBlue seat.


If you've enjoyed flying with Virgin America, you'd enjoy flying with jetBlue.  They're similar in their laid back approach to air travel and their serious efforts to give fliers a few welcome perks.  Both offer satellite TV (free) and a handful of movies (pay), which are a lifesaver when you've got time to burn on a transcontinental flight.  They both also offer a wide selection of decent-for-airlines food for purchase, and they keep their fares competitive with deep discounts for flights purchased well in advance and regular sales.  But jetBlue goes even further by offering free snacks (your choice of cookies, terra chips, cashews, animal crackers, and often a few others) and one free checked bag.  It's a bit sad that we consider a free checked bag to be a perk when recent memory tells us all airlines used to check our bags for free, but in today's pared down flying climate we travelers take what we can get.


The jetBlue terminal at JFK offers additional extras like charging stations for your electronics and a chic bar with small bites and a decent wine list.  All in all, jetBlue is an affordable, comfortable, and, dare I say it, fun airline.  Like Virgin America they fly limited routes, but if they're flying yours I recommend you book a flight and, while you're at it, join their TrueBlue rewards program.  You'll be back.

Monday, May 3, 2010

84 New Ways to get to Paris

A large-scale advertising campaign in the Washington, D.C. Metro tipped me off to the news: Open Skies, an all business airline owned by British Airways, just launched a Dulles - Orly route that promises "an innovative cabin, personalized services, and impeccable quality."

Starting today, discerning travelers can pay from $825 plus taxes and fees for a one way transatlantic "Biz Seat" ticket. If you want a "Biz Bed," get ready to fork over at least $1580 one way. But you'll have to depechez-vous if you'd like to snag a spot on this route. With only five flights per week and 84 seats per flight, Open Skies flights are très exclusive.

Thursday, March 25, 2010

5 Ways to Enjoy Springtime in Paris

It's considered one of the best times to visit the City of Light: Springtime in Paris has achieved iconic status as perennial dream vacation destination, conjuring up images of impeccably dressed couples wandering romantically amidst the most famous Parisian landmarks. If you're one of the lucky ones heading there in the next couple of months, here are 5 ways you can enjoy the season of renewal in Paris.


1. Picnic by the Louvre

My all time favorite spot for a Parisian picnic is the lawn just in front of the Louvre, right before you go down the stairs that lead to the Jardin des Tuileries. The grass is lush, the scenery is second to none, and watching all the tourists and Parisians stroll by provides endless entertainment. Bonus: you don't need much to create the perfect picnic. A baguette, some cheese, a bit of fruit, and a bottle of wine will do the trick.


2. Visit the gardens at Versailles

Inside Versailles it's cramped and hot...if even you manage to survive the incredible wait line that keeps tourists on their weary feet for much too long. Save the interior for bad weather. A better bet is to arrive early and visit the chateau's sprawling gardens instead. You’ll wander among all manner of flora and fountains as you imagine what it must have been like to attend outdoor parties with the King and Queen. Make your way to Marie Antoinette’s Hameau - a secluded farm and modest home built especially for her - to see where the queen escaped when she wanted to play peasant.


3. People watch from a café

Saddle up to a café table and sit like the French do: facing out to the street. Enjoy the never-ending parade of characters that will rush and saunter by as you sip a Sancerre in the Parisian sun. Life doesn't get much better than this.

4. Walk or bike along the Seine

On Sundays the city of Paris blocks off its river-hugging roads to cars, making way for pedestrians and bicyclists to take in the view. What a treat to enjoy the Seine without the noise of those crazy Parisian drivers careening along its banks.

5. Take a trip en Province

Not to be confused with Provence – the southern French region that conjures up images of sunflowers and lavender – en Province is what the Parisians use to describe any area of France that’s outside of their beloved Paris. So while springtime in Paris is magical, why not flee the hustle and bustle of the French capital for one of the quieter but no less romantic/historic/scenic parts of the country? You could soak up the Mediterranean sun in Nice, discover new bottles of bubbly in Champagne, or find excellent off-season deals on vacations packages in the Alps.

Whether you spend springtime in Paris or springtime en Province, you're sure to find La Belle Vie in full, glorious bloom this time of year in France.


Thursday, October 22, 2009

The Dos and Donts of Train Travel

There's something simplistically thrilling about riding a train. You zip along, gaze at the changing landscapes that fly by, and pull into a grand, airy, bustling station when you reach your destination. It has an air of old-fashionedness to it, which makes it fun and filled with nostalgia. Not to mention the lack of hassles that come with other forms of transportation (I'm talking to you, airplanes). Of course, there are plenty of ways a train ride can go terribly wrong. It's not all comfort and romance, and great adventure. Eight years of European train rides have gifted me a laundry list of horror stories, from puking in a tiny, sideways-rocking bathroom to not sleeping in a cramped, sweaty sleeping car. Luckily, practice makes perfect, and with a few tips and tricks I've picked up along the way, I think I'm pretty close to having train travel down to an art. Here are my dos and don'ts for how to ride the rails - in style - in Europe.

Do pack light. Other than a few luggage racks at the end of each car, there's usually only room for your suitcase on the shelf above your seat.

Do dress comfortably chic. Riding a train, especially a high-speed one like the TGV in France, has a bit of glamour to it. I enjoy the trip most when I'm wearing something between a business casual and pajamas.

Do be prepared for scary bathrooms. They're different everytime, but I've seen bathrooms with no running water, with toilets that open up to the tracks, and with smells so bad I had to Febreeze my entire body to get them off. The high-speed trains tend to be nicer, but take care with the regional ones. A bottle of Purell and some toilet paper in your suitcase helps.

Do visit the train bar, but Don't buy anything. The bar is a great place to stetch your legs and people-watch. Too bad the food and drink are sub-par and exhorbitantly expensive. Pack your own snack, saddle up to a table in front of the expansive windows, and daydream as you watch the countryside roll by.

Do keep yourself open to conversations with your neighbors. I'm usually the bury-my-nose-in-my-book type, but I've had a number of wonderful conversations with strangers on trains. Something about that form of transportation just begs for friendly chit-chat.

Do get your hands on some metro tickets in advance if your destination city in Paris. When a train full of people tries to use the scarce ticket machines at the same time, the line becomes unbearable. Have one already tucked away so you can arrive like the locals and not like the tourists.

Don't go to the station early. Train stations can be beautiful and exciting, but they're often not very pleasant places for just hanging around. And if you arrive too early, your train likely won't be at the platform yet. Unless you're taking Eurostar, there won't be any security or lines. 15 - 20 minutes in advance is plenty.

Don't lose your ticket. You might not have to show your ticket to board the train, but the controllers almost always come around. I was once berated by a Spanish controller and came this close to paying a hefty fine. For goodness' sake, hold on to that thing.

Don't travel by "sleeper" train. Buying a bed in an overnight train gets you an impossibly tiny bunk in a six bunk car that shakes and rattles all night. It's uncomfortable, and depending on who you share a car with, a bit creepy. Avoid.

Bon Voyage!

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Timing is Everything

It’s a conundrum all travelers will eventually have to face: book early, or wait to the last minute? Which form of trip planning will give you the best deals? There are those who swear it’s the early bird who catches the worm, while others will tell you it’s the last minute purchases that offer the biggest travel savings. As far as I’m concerned, both options can work to your advantage. You just have to know when to use them.

I recently got burned by waiting until the last minute to make important travel arrangements. When a friend told me she would be in Paris the weekend of September 12-13 I said, “Great! I’ll meet you there,” thinking I could wait until I was settled into life in Brussels before looking at ticket options and making my decision. By the time I got around to researching prices, round-trips were already too pricey for my weekend travel budget. To make matters worse, the train reservation sites were all advertising great Brussels – Paris deals…if you booked a month or more in advance. Nevertheless, there are travel websites out there that consistently offer great last minute deals. For example I’ve had success finding impressively low prices on normally out-of-range hotels with lastminute.com’s French site.

The Parisian weekend disappointment taught me a good lesson: if you have your heart set on a certain trip, book early. Start looking more than a month out, and if you see a price your comfortable with, go for it. What’s more, from what I can tell, booking early for train travel in Europe is almost always the way to get a good deal. On the other hand, if the mood to get out of town tomorrow strikes you, and you’re less concerned with the location than with the price, booking last minute doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll pay a fortune for your impulses. Have a few go-to discount travel sites on hand, be flexible, and get excited when you book a fabulous weekend jaunt without breaking the bank.

What’s your preferred travel style: book early, or buy last minute?

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Brussels in a Notebook

Fellow blogger, Nomadic Matt, recently blogged about his need to keep better notes while on the road. I sympathize with his situation having had many a frustrating moment trying to remember some important detail - an address, the name of a favorite restaurant - last year in Paris. Getting ready to head to Brussels, I was vowing to do a better job this time around when another fellow blogger came to the rescue: The Cupcake Avenger gifted me my very first Molskine City Notebook.

Now, it's possible that before receiving a Moleskine City Notebook all wrapped up in a pretty little birthday bag, I was the only traveler in existence who didn't really know what a Moleskine City Notebook was. Basically, it's a guide book that you make yourself as you go along exploring and living in a specific city. There are some street maps and a metro guide in the front of my Brussels edition, but the rest is up to me. They give you sections for writing down favorite shops, eateries, encounters and museums. There is a little expandable pouch in the back for stashing away business cards, ticket stubs and newspaper clippings. There are blank pages for your notes, and tracing papers for, well, whatever you might need tracing papers for. I recently used my Moleskine to jot down the address of a fromagerie that recently won my heart with an amazing crottin de chèvre.

Having only used Moleskin for a few short days, I already don't know how I ever traveled without one. Isn't it fun how there's always a new travel toy to discover and play with on your next trip? If you know you're going to be in a certain city for an extended period of time, think about picking up your own City Notebook. They makes guides for locales all over the globe, from Amsterdam to Zurich. When you're done, you'll have the perfect, useful souvenir in your possession. And you'll never again forget the name of a favorite fromagerie.

Thursday, August 20, 2009

Getting Over Jet Lag

As I write this entry, my eyes are slowly starting to close… Jet lag. It happens even to the most seasoned of travelers. No matter how many times you cross the pond (or the Pacific), jumping between multiple timezones can mess with your internal clock and wreak havoc on your body’s sleep patterns. This is where the homegrown remedies come in. It seems like everyone has a solution for beating jet lag. The “cures” vary widely in their approaches, and travelers love to share their best strategies for getting on local time. With dead tiredness setting in at unusual hours, I’m all ears.

But what option do you trust? A colleague of mine suggested drinking orange juice as a way to banish the body’s timezone confusion. Before heading off to Brussels, I came across a magazine article that cited a study by the Harvard Medical School that suggests fasting before and during your flight will keep jet lag at bay. My Frommer’s guide tries to debunk the classic hit-the-ground-running theory by claiming a quick nap upon arrival is truly the way to go. None of that worked for you? Then try popping a few No-Jet-Lag pills. Yup, they have those.

In the end, waiting it out might be the only true recourse for the weary traveler. I’ve heard many people say it takes them at least a week to get back on a normal sleep schedule, and I’m predicting the same will be true for me in Belgium, no matter how much advice to the contrary I receive. Of course, my own thought on jet lag has always been that it’s easier to go from the U.S. to Europe than it is from Europe to the U.S., this trip notwithstanding. Something about that never-ending day on the westward journey that seems to be especially disruptive. Everyone has their own way of tackling (or accepting) jet lag. What’s yours?

Thursday, August 6, 2009

Fear of Flying

If only getting to Brussels didn't involve getting on an airplane. What with the luggage fees, carry-on restrictions, demeaning, assembly line-ish removing-of-the-shoes security, and the lack of any decent in-flight service, flying becomes less and less pleasant every time I do it. That would be bad enough on its own, but on top of being wholly uncomfortable, air travel is also downright scary. I've never felt at ease at 30,000 feet, and this week's story of violent turbulence isn't helping. For some travelers, the skies are anything but friendly.

The aforementioned realities of flying explain why, when given the option, I much prefer to travel by train. Taking the Train à Grande Vitesse (TGV) in France, for example, is downright enjoyable. You can show up as little as five minutes before your departure time, there are no security lines, there are no liquid carry-on restrictions, the seats have more legroom and are only two to a side, not three or more, there is usually a bar car for your enjoyment, and an upgrade to first class is often very reasonably priced. Now, some might argue that the absence of security checkpoints is not a positive thing, or that flying is not scary at all when you remember that riding in a car is far more likely to get you killed and we do that all the time without really worrying about it, but I disagree. I enjoy boarding a train with my dignity in tact (as well as my shoes), and I don't care what the statistics say; I feel better without the possibility of plummeting to my death hanging over me, however minuscule that possibility might be.

Alas, if one wishes to travel, one will at some point likely need to ride in an airplane. The best those of us who despair at the thought can do is to minimize the headaches of flight: try not to check bags, wear easily removable shoes, and take deep, reassuring breaths when the ride gets a little bumpy. It should be said that I've also met travelers who turn to medicinal solutions, the non-over-the-counter kind. And for goodness' sake, whenever possible you should avoid purchasing tickets that require you to change planes. I'm happy to report that my flight from DC to Brussels is blessedly direct.

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Guidebooks for All

In between all the hectic last-minute errands and general pain in the neck aspects of moving, getting ready to live overseas is ridiculously fun and exciting. In addition to dusting off my language skills by talking to myself in French for long stretches of time, one of my favorite pre-trip rituals involves researching and purchasing a new guidebook. New guidebooks are full of possibilities, and there's nothing like a bit of pre-trip reading to get you in the mood for travel. Needless to say, when my copy of The Rough Guide to Europe on a Budget finally arrived in the mail I literally jumped for joy.

With all the options out there - guides for Europe, guides for just Western or Eastern Europe, country and even city-specific options from multiple travel guide sources - it can be difficult to make your final selection. Lonely Planet and Frommer's are perennial favorites, and Rick Steves is a reliable expert on Europe. Personally, I used to love the Let's Go series. My college friends and I would read their cleverly written histories and descriptions of upcoming destinations to each other while riding the rails in France, Spain or Italy. This time around I wanted a book that better fits my post-student travel lifestyle, and the Rough Guides line came recommended. If you're traveling through France, you should always pick up a copy of the Michelin Guide. Especially useful on road trips, Michelin rates food and lodging throughout the country, from swank Parisian hotels to traditional bistrots in the tiniest of French villages. If it wasn't for Michelin, I might never have spent a night in a 14th century Cisterian monastery. Be sure to look for the Michelin Man symbol, not stars, if you want to go budget.

Selecting a guidebook can be a very personal decision. Like other travel gear, such as a backpack or a camera, you have to get a good feeling about it; you have to have a connection with your guidebook. After all, it's going to be your constant companion, helping you find a place to sleep, food to eat, and sights to explore. When it comes to guidebooks, everyone has their favorite. What's yours?

Friday, July 3, 2009

Day Trips from DC

It's official: Double-wide strollers and fanny packs have invaded Washington, DC just in time for the 4th of July weekend. As I do every year, I'll be joining the masses - outsiders and residents alike - on The National Mall tomorrow for an Independence Day celebration like no other, but today I'm going to try to limit my American flag T-shirt exposure by reliving the experiences of my pioneering ancestors and heading west.

The day trip possibilities from DC are endless. Do you want wine or walking tours? Civil War battle sites or beaches? Travel and Leisure lists their top 8 destinations, and About.com suggests trips to satisfy every interest. My suggestion for a day trip? Anything that doesn't involve Metro escalator traffic jams.

Saturday, May 30, 2009

Tennis in the Springtime

The French Open is well underway, and while there's nothing quite like sitting in the stands of Roland Garros with the Euro-chic tennis-loving crowd, Condé Nast Traveler's Daily Traveler blog is doing its best to bring the tournament to you. They've tapped tennis star Vera Zvonareva to blog about her experiences while in Paris for the Open. Though she had to withdraw from the competition because of an injury, she's not sitting around sulking. Instead, she's taking advantage of her free time to explore the city, proving that Paris in the springtime is also well underway.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Beyond Paris

I don't have to tell you, Parisian Spring reader, that I'm in love with Paris. It's pretty obvious. But sometimes I forget to say just how much I love the rest of France, too. In fact, my first French experience wasn't in Paris at all, it was in Cannes. The second time I lived in France I was also in the south, and during that five month stay I didn't even bother to go up to the capital. I'm not really ready to admit it right here, right now, but it's possible that there are parts of France that I actually prefer to Paris. To prove it, I recently wrote an article about some of those places. Check it out, and let me know what you think. Did I leave out any of your favorites?

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Travel, Travel, Everywhere

Whether you're a travel writer or a travel reader (or both!) you simply have to check out Graduate Degree Blog's list of resources related to all things voyage. They've gathered 100 stellar bits of information, so there's something for everyone. Writers will find tips, tools, and inspiration for their next big story, while readers will find new blogs, writers, and websites to explore. Everyone will find Parisian Spring hanging out and looking oh-so-French at spot #45.
Happy Discovering!

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Diplomatic Sightseeing

Did you know that the document that ended the American Revolutionary War was signed in France? I'm slightly ashamed to admit that I had forgotten this useful bit of information (which was surely taught to me in a 5th grade history class) until just a few days ago, when I had the opportunity to view an original version of the treaty. On September 3, 1783, Benjamin Franklin, John Adams and John Jay met with a British Delegation at Parisian hotel to officially put an end to the conflict between Great Britain and her rebellious colonies. Today, you can see their treaty and a whole host of American diplomatic art by taking a little known Washington, DC tour: The U.S. Department of State Diplomatic Reception Rooms Tour.


One possible reason for the obscurity of the Diplomatic Reception Rooms Tour could be its reliance on highly organized travelers. Reservations for the tour must be made no fewer than 90 days in advance, a requirement that disqualifies uninformed and last-minute visitors alike. If you do manage to get a reservation, you won't be disappointed, as the rooms are filled with magnificent pieces dating back to the early years of the Republic. You'll find china used by Paul Revere, French wine glasses that once belonged to Martha Washington's sister, and one of Thomas Jefferson's writing desks thought to have been used during the drafting of the Declaration of Independence. Paintings on the walls range from scenes of the Pilgrims' landing to portraits of famous Revolutionaries. All of the pieces in the collection were donated, and the tour itself is free.

Of course, the highlight of the tour is the Treaty of Paris. Seeing the real signatures of Benjamin Franklin, John Jay, and John Adams is a truly moving experience. They're some of our Founding Fathers! And while we usually only read about them in the history books, seeing a document they created and actually touched reminds you that they existed as men, not simply as stories. You'll also get to see the painting I included in this post, which is Benjamin West's depiction of the signing of the Treaty of Paris. Famously unfinished, West had to abandon the project when British signatory, David Hartley, refused to sit for him. I guess he was a sore loser.

Sunday, February 22, 2009

Travels Well With Others

One of the best things about living in the DC area is that you're never at a loss for things to do when guests come to visit. Museums, monuments, vibrant neighborhoods, restaurants whose menus span the globe and nearby cities like Baltimore and Philadelphia mean the only problem you'll have is not enough time. Virginia vineyards are particularly fun to show off, so when a dear friend and her husband came to town for the weekend I jumped at the chance to partake in a mini winery tour. Joined by two other DC-based friends (including one pregnant woman, nature's glorious way of providing the rest of us with a designated driver), we piled into a very cramped Honda Civic and headed for greener pastures, just beyond The Beltway.

The morning started out with a light snowfall followed by steady rain, but by noon had thankfully given way to sunny skies. With Chrysalis Vineyards, Barrel Oak Winery and Piedmont Vineyards and Winery all on the itinerary, there simply wasn't time for a weather disaster. We sipped on such specialties as peach and chocolate wine, only stopping to picnic with a newly bought Chardonnay. Unfortunately, unlike most of the tastings I've done at wineries in France, sipping in Virginia will cost you: anywhere from $3 to $6 for a multi-glass flite is standard, but some will waive the fee if you buy a bottle. Fortunately, the scenery of Virginia vineyards is magnificent, complete with rolling hills, winding gravel roads and patios offering majestic, sprawling views. I picked up a bottle of my favorite white at Chrysalis, and was delighted to hear that their new creamery should start selling cheeses by early summer. As if I needed another reason to return.

While the reds, whites, and sparklings all hit the spot, it was the company that truly made my day. Sure, I've done a fair amount of solo travel, loved it, and would recommend it to anyone who's looking to discover not only the sights, but a bit of themselves as well. It's just that you get a bit extra when you travel with friends. Between the belly laughs, photo-ops and inside jokes, you'll never want the trip to end. When it does end, you have shared memories that can be discussed, dissected and glorified for years. The whole wine tour gang is coming over to chez moi tonight for dinner, and I'm guessing we'll do exactly that.

Friday, February 13, 2009

Paper Trail

Currently living in the Washington, DC area? Itching to escape the partisan bickering, policy wrangling and maddeningly surreal Beltway traffic jams? Well, the Washington Post is here to help. On February 1, 2009, DC's most prolific paper released its Annual Travel Guide. Cleverly dubbed "Way to Go," it claims to be "the smart way to get from the Washington area to just about anywhere." Sounds pretty good, but what do you actually get for your Sunday paper fee? I decided to investigate.

For starters, you get a lot of tips for traveling on a budget. Of course, if you're anything like me and have spent most of your traveling life as either a student living off loans or an idealistic non-profit employee living off next to nothing, you don't really need these sections. You already know how to find hotel deals online and book a flight with a low-cost European carrier. The travel guide will also help you find your traveling niche, with ideas for seniors, families, vegetarians, and volunteers, among others. What, no category for unabashed Francophiles? There's a whole section devoted to giving you the lowdown on DC airports (my suggestion: go Reagan National), as well as information for those who still need to apply for a passport (my suggestion: prepare to hate your photo).

But my favorite section by far is the one they tucked away on the back page. "21 Regional Destinations" offers Washington-weary Washingtonians tips for nearby getaways. Sure, day trip and weekend guides are a dime a dozen, but I can't get enough of them. They remind me that travel doesn't have to mean trekking halfway across the globe, which is reassuring to someone with few funds and even fewer vacation days. Plus, they always remind me to take advantage of my surroundings. With just a short drive in either direction I could find peace and quiet on Tangier Island, buy Amish goods at a market in Maryland, or visit an area of West Virginia where scientists listen for sounds from outer space. Or I could just read about it in the paper.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Winter Games

With the International Ski Federation's Alpine World Ski Championships currently taking place in Val d'Isère, France, I got to thinking about my own long ago visits to the French Alps. There was that group trip during a semester abroad in 2001, when we spent a night in picturesque Annecy and an afternoon hitting the slopes in Val Thorens. Then there was a weekend à deux this past March where I traded skis for snowshoes and got to spend time gazing at Europe's highest peak, Mont Blanc. The Alps have a reputation for being all glitz and glam with a dash of snobbery thrown in for good measure. A mountainous French Riviera, if you will. But while this is true to a certain extent (due, according to some of the French people I met, to an influx of über-rich Brits and Russians), in many ways the French Alps are just another regular vacation destination, filled with families, friends, serious skiers and chalet loungers alike.


One group that does seem to be missing from the slopes of France is Americans. Just this past March in Les Menuires I heard a lot of French, Dutch, and German, and a lot of British accents, but not a lot of American English. Maybe I wasn't in the right valley, but I think it might have more to do with the fact that we have fabulous skiing destinations right here in our own backyard. Utah alone is practically bursting at the seams with downhill possibilities, not to mention countless popular ski spots in California, Virginia and Wyoming. Want a little Alps-esque glitz and glam? You've got Aspen, which is generally good for a celebrity sighting or two. Even my own non-mountainous Minnesota has some decent options for skiers, without the hassle of a trans-Atlantic flight.

That said, a trip to the French Alps is never a waste of time. The scenery is gorgeous all year round, there is an array of local food and wine to savor (you can't go wrong with Tomme de Savoie and a crisp Alpine white), and the area is a good starting-off point for visits to Switzerland, Italy and the populous French city of Lyon. Padded Russian bank account not required.


Thursday, January 8, 2009

The Land of the Free

Thinking of moving to Washington, DC? Start saving. Now. Our nation's capital is a very expensive place to live. Ok, so it's not London expensive, Tokyo expensive, or even Manhattan expensive, but to a Midwestern gal who could return from whence she came and rent an entire house for what she currently pays for a one bedroom apartment, DC is a very expensive city. And it's not just housing. Food, fuel, entertainment, and dining out all cost significantly more here than they do in many other equally inhabitable areas. Thankfully, all is not lost for our beleaguered Washingtonians. In a financially favorable twist of fate, DC is positively chock full of free things to do, ensuring that residents and visitors alike can have a little fun without breaking the bank.

Wallet weary activity seekers should start with a trip to the National Mall. In addition to strolling along this grand open urban oasis, visitors can explore the Smithsonian museums, climb to the top of the Washington Monument, and pay their respects at the WWII, Korean War and Vietnam War memorials without spending a dime. Next there's the Kennedy Center, whose Millennium Stage offers a free performance (sometimes music, sometimes dance, sometimes something else) daily at 6pm. If you prefer to be outside, walk through the nature preserve on Theodore Roosevelt Island or ride your bike along the Mount Vernon Trail. Got kids? They'll love the National Zoo or morning storytime at the Politics and Prose Bookstore, and you'll love the nonexistent price tag. Don't forget about the seasonal freebies too. There's the Cherry Blossom Festival in Spring, Screen on the Green in Summer and the Dumbarton Oaks gardens are free of charge, though admittedly less colorful, from November to March.

All of this freeness is especially good for the thousands of students and unpaid interns who flock to DC for its high profile universities and career-launching reputation. Sadly, as a DC grad student myself I was too busy taking in the library to ever find time for taking in a show. Now that my studying days are behind me, I'm looking forward to nights at the Kennedy Center, weekends on the trails, and finally seeing the cherry blossoms in bloom. Anything to help me get over the sticker shock of paying rent.

Monday, October 20, 2008

Home Away From Home

Expats do all kinds of things to feel comfortable in their foreign locale. They make new friends, try local foods, and practice the local language. They probably also stay in touch with loved ones back home, try to seek out familiar foods, and cherish relationships with fellow expats who understand their situation and (whew!) speak their language. All of these actions and others like them are intended to make the foreigner feel more at home, wherever she might find herself. Recently, I've stumbled upon the realization that another, less talked about tactic exists. It happened during a second trip to a Parisian brasserie that I found particularly cozy, welcoming and perfectly French: When you adopt a new town, you must also adopt new go-to hangouts.

I've spent most of the years of my life in and around the Minneapolis/St. Paul area. As a result, I've built up an extensive list of shops, lakes, parks and restaurants that I know well, feel comfortable with, and regularly frequent. The knowledge I have about these places, and the level of comfort I have with them, is reassuring; it makes me feel like I'm a part of the city I live in and it gives me direction when planning my daily activities. When you move to a new city, you have none of this. You don't know the best stores, which bar mixes the best drinks, or which parks carry the best picnicking potential. You have to learn all of that from scratch, and the sooner you do, the more at home you'll feel.

Expanding your horizons and trying something new from time to time keeps life interesting, but having go-to places makes you feel like an insider. When guests come to visit, you have great things to show them. You might even get to know the other locals who frequent the same spots. That said, finding you new favorite standbys can be a long and frustrating process. You'll have to deal with you fair share of duds before you hit the jackpot. I spent months going to a yucky, run-down and over-crowded Target store in the DC area before I discovered the big, new, gloriously spacious Target Greatland that was nearby. I still don't feel like I have enough familiar spots in Paris, but the brasserie is helping to change that. After three visits in the past two weeks, I started to recognize the staff, feel comfortable walking in the door (rather than being unsure of how the place operates), and even recommended it to a friend. I'm leaving Paris tomorrow, but it's nice to have some ideas in my pocket for the next visit. And I can't wait to see my old favorites back home.