Soaking in the City of Spa

Winters in Belgium are dark, dreary, and seemingly without end. Latitudinally speaking, this country is up in middle-Canada range, which means that for too long out of the year the sun rises around 9 a.m. and sets before anyone even thinks about leaving work. Add to that the regular Belgian weather pattern of 364 days of clouds often mixed with rain and sometimes even snow and you've got a populace so racked with the winter blues it's hard to imagine recovery could be possible.

Then you learn about a city called Spa. Yes, Spa, as in the city that gave English a word that means "A resort providing therapeudic baths." Located in the Walloon (French-speaking) Region of Belgium, and known as the home of the Formula One Belgian Grand Prix, and for its mineral water company of the same name, the city's Thermes de Spa attract winter-worn pilgrams who come to soak in the baths, roast in the saunas, and breathe in menthol-scented air in the steam rooms. In short, it's paradise for those of us who are counting the days until Spring.

For the surprisingly reasonable price of 17 euros, a couple of friends and I were able to spend three glorious hours in the Thermes' warm, envelopping, fully relaxing, non-winter environment. The café food was yummy, and the view of the surrounding hillsides that you take in while leisurely floating in the outdoor pool was magnificent. We left Spa feeling healthy, refreshed, and ready to tackle what's left of this dark, dreary, never-ending Belgian winter.

If you go:

Les Thermes de Spa
Colline d'Annette et Lubin, 4900 Spa
Telephone : +32(0)87 77 25 60

About 1h30 from Brussels by car

Review: airbnb.com

How do you like to travel? Inexpensively? Comfortably? Luxuriously? I've reached a point in my life where I'm looking for something more than the push-button showers and thin-mattressed bunks of my backpacking days, but doable in terms of my bank account. So while planning a recent long weekend in Paris, I wanted to find lodging that satisfied my young professional's tastes and my young professional's salary. Enter, airbnb.com.

Airbnb.com connects renters with rentees, for short or long term stays, and with an impressive range of tastes in mind. Traveling on a budget and just need a couch to crash on? They have that. Searching for that perfect Upper East Side homebase for a weekend of 5th Avenue shopping? They have that too. Always wanted to know what it's like to sleep in an igloo? Yes, they even have that. Hoping to rent a fourth floor, newly renovated, studio apartment in the Marais that is clean, simple yet comfortable, and gives you a true feel for what it's like to live in Paris? So was I.

Overall, my experience renting a Parisian apartment through Airbnb.com was flawless. I found a great place (and price) for what I felt was the perfect launching point for a weekend of visiting friends, taking in the sights, and shopping the sales. The woman who owns the apartment was friendly, prompt, and sent her very nice mother over to welcome me to my four-day home. The apartment was spotless, perfectly located, and tastefully remodeled. I would definitely use airbnb again. I wonder if they have anything on a Greek island...?

Looking for Liberté, Egalité, and Fraternité

Born during the French Revolution and institutionalized during the Third Republic, "Liberté, Egalité, Fraternité" is the well-known, widely seen national motto of France. This phrase is everywhere in l'Hexagone: On stamps, on coins, and on countless buildings across the country. It even used to be inscribed on packs of Gauloises cigarettes. I kept noticing the French motto while out on my early Sunday morning photography mission, and since no one was around to block my shot, I kept taking pictures of it. It's a beautiful motto - Liberty, Equality, Fraternity (Brotherhood) - and a fun subject to hunt for while roaming the streets of Paris.

Good Morning, Paris

Parisians are not morning people. Many shops in Paris don't open their doors until sometime between 10:00 and 11:00, and most of my Paris-based friends don't need to be at the office until 9:00, 9:30, or even 10:00. For a morning person like myself (and for someone who has spent time in the very morning-oriented city of Washington, DC), this can sometimes be a frustrating reality, as waking up at 6:30 ready to start your day only works if the rest of the city has the same idea. I once shocked a French friend when he discovered I'm always at my desk no later than 8:00. The expression on his face could have correctly been translated into the words, "Crazy Americans."


But there is one advantage we crazy morning people have over all the others in Paris: We're the only ones who ever get this city to ourselves. Venture into the streets at the crack of dawn and you'll enjoy empty sidewalks, quiet boulevards, and deserted parks; a welcome change from the often overwhelming hustle and bustle. This works especially well on weekends, when Parisians are under no obligation to present themselves to the outside world until lunchtime.

With that in mind, I left my apartment at 8:00 on Sunday morning hoping to take photos along the Seine and in a few of the neighborhoods. Without having to deal with the usual crush of locals and tourists I could easily get all the shots I wanted. No stray pedestrians walking in front of the camera and no stares from Parisians as I crouched down to capture the city from different angles. The only other people I saw were a few like-minded photographers getting their own perfect morning pictures.

Parisian View

One hour and twenty minutes on the train later, I find myself in rainy, fabulous Paris. There are many things in this city that make me swoon every time I see them, - the Eiffel Tower, pastries in a shop window, anything at Galleries Lafayette - but the view out a Parisian window is even more swoon-worthy than most. Even views that are average are beautiful, simply because there's no other place in the world that looks likes Paris.

So, naturally, the first thing I did after moving into my studio aparment rental on the Rue du Temple was open the the window and take in the view, the second thing I did was take a picture, and the third thing I did was come back in out of the rain and close the window tight. Thank goodness I brought my umbrella.

Graffiti and Gingerbread

A few weeks ago I told you about my sister's impending visit to Brussels. I was anxious for her first trip to Europe - would she have fun, would she like it here - but those worries turned out to be completely unfounded, as we had a fantastic time in Brussels, Amsterdam, and, of course, Paris. She LOVED Paris.

Seeing your town from the eyes of a visitor can be a reveletory experience, and my sister did not disappoint. On her first day in Brussels she made two observations:

1. "All the houses look like gingerbread houses!"

and 2. "There is graffiti everywhere!"

Truer words about the Belgian capital were never spoken.

Prepping for Paris

You know those people whose idea of a good time is showing up in a foreign city without any plans and just going where the wind takes them? Yeah, I’m not one of those people. My idea of a relaxing, successful trip is one that I’ve meticulously planned. I want to know exactly what tram/bus/taxi to take when I step off that train/plane, where I’m going, and what I’m going to do while I’m there. It’s not that I dislike spontaneity - If something else comes up and I need to switch my plans to enjoy an unexpected surprise, I’m all for it – but I don’t count on it providing me with the best possible experience. So, with my long-anticipated four-day trip to Paris on the horizon (quite possibly my last visit before returning to the U.S.), I’ve already set to work on a schedule that I hope will help me make the most of my last Parisian hurrah.

Here are some of the activities I have in mind:

Shopping “Les Soldes.” The big, post-Christmas sale season is in full swing. How could I resist hitting up my favorite stores to see if I can snag a great deal?

Trying a new restaurant, preferably one that’s a bit of a splurge. I sent out a tweet asking for recommendations and got a bunch of really good ones. Wading through them now and will set reservations this weekend.

Tweet-up on Sunday. I was invited to meet with fellow Francophile bloggers. I wonder what we'll talk about...

Drooling my way through the E. Dehillerin cooking supply store, which is heaven for amateur and pro cooks alike. I’m hoping to pick up a set of grapefruit spoons and one of those handy all-in-one French cheese knives.

Not going to the top of the Arc de Triomphe, as shown in this post's picture. It is one of my favorite things to do in Paris, but I just did it twice in three months. Maybe next time.

Visiting friends. My former roommate and a friend I met while studying in Paris are already on the list. Hoping to connect with a few others if time permits.

Lots of pastry eating. Might be awhile before I can get a good croissant aux amandes again.

Wandering a marché aux puces. I could spend hours wading through old junk in search of a treasure, but I’ve actually never done it in Paris. Need to change that.

Blogging, of course! I've arranged accommodations through airbnb.com, so I'll be reporting on the pros and cons (hopefully more pros) of this rental service, among other things.

If you only had four days in Paris, and you didn’t know when you’d be back, what would you do?

What Do You Know About Luxembourg?

What do you know about Luxembourg? Maybe that it’s a small, wealthy country? Or that it’s somewhere in Western Europe? Or that its citizens speak a language called Luxembourgish? Maybe you don’t really know anything about Luxembourg, but you could hardly be faulted for it. There isn’t a lot of news coming out of the place, and it’s not usually at the top of anyone’s travel wish list. When I moved to Belgium I knew very little about the smallest member of the Benelux region other than that I wanted to take advantage of its proximity to Brussels to engage in a little exploration. Last weekend’s overnight stay finally opened my eyes to this undeniably charming European enclave.

Recorded history shows that Luxembourg's eponymous capital city (sometimes also referred to at Luxembourg City) arrived on the scene in 963. Built as a fortress city, it possessed great strategic value throughout much of Europe's tumultuous history. At 998 square miles, and with a population of roughly 493,500, the country of Luxembourg is tiny, but it is also quite powerful. Its financial sector is one of the most important in Europe, and it has the highest GDP per capita in the world (approximately $113,00 according to the IMP, whereas the U.S. is at about $47,000). Luxembourg's citizens do speak Luxembourgish, but also speak French and German (the other two official languages) and often English.

Luxembourg City is not big, but there is plenty to do to fill a weekend. I loved exploring the historic fortifications as well as walking around the adorable old town (someone once told me that the city looks like it was plucked out of Disneyland, and they were right), both of which were named World Heritage sites by UNESCO. There is a cathedral and a couple of large churches to visit, a number of theatrical and musical venues, excellent shopping opportunities, and an impressive number of fine dining options. Be sure to try one of Luxembourg's wines or sparkling wines, which are said to rival their more famous French neighbors. The rest of the country offers beautiful rolling hills and plenty of outdoor activities.

One of the things I liked best about Luxembourg was that it was small. Larger European capitals are amazing (hello, Paris!), but can sometimes be overwhelming. I felt relaxed in Luxembourg, which is not usually something you feel in, say, London or Brussels. The city gives you the impression of being isolated from the rest of the world, and provides a unique and beautiful escape. We might not know much about Luxembourg, but maybe we should.

Bikes Around Europe

Paris isn't the only European city with a self-service bike rental system. I snapped these photos of distincly Vélib'-esque two-wheelers in Brussels (called Villo!) and Luxembourg City (called Véloh!).

It begs the question: Just how many bike rental system names can one cleverly derive from the French word, "vélo?"

Travel in 2010

2010 marks the third year I will track my worldwide (and statestide) travels via Parisian Spring. The impending move into a new decade made me wonder: If 2008 was the year of Paris - when I studied a little and traveled the country a lot - and 2009 was the year of unpredictability - when I declared my intent to travel the U.S. but instead moved to Belgium - what will be 2010's travel theme? I didn't do so well at predictions last year, but after realizing that I haven't taken a real vacation in five years, which is one I characterize as 7 days and 7 nights of nothing but pure relaxation, I'm hoping resolving to make 2010 the year of the vacation. I'm also resolving to get better at predictions.

This will be the year when I use my precious few annual leave days not to go home to Minnesota, or as nice ideas that exist but never get used, but as time when I leave my worries behind and spend a week or more lounging on the beach, in a wilderness hideout, or at a secluded spa. Two ideas are already in the works. The first involves a week in Los Angeles sometime in March. I'm envisioning drives up the California coast, testing out the local restaurant scene, and possibly even a day at Disneyland, my favorite childhood vacation spot. The second idea is Greece. I'll celebrate my final 20-something birthday in July, so why not celebrate the almost-end-of-an-era with a late springtime jaunt amongst the islands? Greece has been on my dream destination list for some time now, and The Year of the Vacation might be the perfect excuse to finally check that box.

Of course, Belgium is still in the picture for 2010, especially since my employer recently extended my time here by a month. I won't be leaving the Capital of Europe until the end of February, giving me plenty of time for a few more weekend trips. Paris is set for mid-January, and I'm trying to find something for mid-February. Any suggestions?

Happy New Year and Happy 2010 Travels!

How to Make Fondue

What do you picture when you think of cheese fondue? My sister used to imagine it was like a bowl of warmed-up Velveeta: slightly orangey in color, a bit bland, and with the same consistency throughout. Then I made a fondue on Christmas Day the way I learned to make it in Paris, using Swiss cheeses, white wine, and a hint of seasoning, which resulted in a thick/liquidy dish with a taste unlike anything her American tongue had experienced before. After exclaiming, "so that's what fondue is supposed to be like!" she helped me polish off the dish in rather short order.

It's not a complicated recipe, and you don't need a refined technique or a special fondue-heating contraption to succeed in making the most delicious fondue you've ever tasted. Just follow these steps:

1. Start with the right ingredients. You need equal parts Appenzeller and Gruyère cheese, white wine (preferably from Switzerland or the Savoie region of France), a teaspoon of chopped garlic, and freshly ground nutmeg to taste. Cut the cheese into small cubes.


2. Heat the garlic and a splash of wine in a deep pot. Ideally you would use a cast iron pot, such as one from Le Creuset, but if you're like me and only have stainless steel pots from Ikea, don't worry. It works fine.

3. Once the wine is simmering, but not boiling, add half of the cheese with a portion of wine. I used 400 grams of cheese in total, so with 200 grams of cheese I added a half a cup of wine. Stir the wine and cheese mixture until the cheese is melted, then add the second portion of cheese plus more wine and stir. Patience is key.

4. Grate fresh nutmeg into the mix until you reach the desired amount for your taste. My feeling is that there's no such thing as too much nutmeg in cheese fondue.


5. Keep stirring and don't remove from the heat the entire time you're eating the fondue. The consistency will be thick, but with some of the wine remaining separate from the cheese providing a sort of liquid bath. You want the mixture to be hot but not burning at the bottom of the pan. Play with the heat and you'll find the right temperature for your pot and stove.

6. Enjoy with cubes of good French bread, roasted potatoes, or steak. We used all three. Oh, and don't forget to drink the rest of the wine while eating your fondue!

Joyeux Noël

Paris' grands magasins go all out on their Christmas decorations, including mechanical window displays, elaborate exterior lighting, and this giant Christmas tree inside the rotunda of Galleries Lafayette. The picture doesn't really do this incredible sight justice, but I think it's pretty just the same. A very Merry Christmas to all who are celebrating today.

The Great European Travel Disaster of 2009

It is not a good time for European travel. The Eurostar has stopped service indefinitely, other rail companies are experiencing major delays, roads are unplowed, accidents abound, and flights now come with many hours spent waiting at the airport. It seems the sudden cold snap followed by decent snowfall has caught a lot of the continent by surprise, upending the holiday plans of thousands of travelers. Add to that the various strikes or threats of strikes that are affecting transportation networks and you've got one big end-of-the-year mess that seems to have left no previously perfectly-timed itinerary untouched.

My sister and I got our own taste of The Great European Travel Disaster of 2009 this weekend. It started with a train reservation on Belgian rail line, Thalys, that was set to leave Brussels' Gare du Midi at 8:50am Saturday morning. Delay after delay found us leaving approximately 20 mintues behind schedule. Not bad, but not ideal either. Unfortunately, it was only a harbinger of things to come. As we kept an eye on the developing Eurostar story and unchanging weather forecasts, we hoped our return to Brussels would not be affected. But upon arrival at Amstedam Centraal Station we quickly heard rumors of no trains coming in and no trains going out. A frantic hour later we somehow managed to learn that our train would be leaving shortly from platform 11a. Running through the station and up to the platform, dragging bags and fellow passengers we passed information to mid-stride, we found our seats and thanked our lucky stars.

The biggest problem we discovered when trying to get back to Brussels was a lack of accurate information. At the Amsterdam station all of the information signs read "no information currently available." Everyone we talked to said "No Thalys." No Thalys right now, or ever? Turns out, it was only delayed by about 40 minutes, a hiccup that should not have caused the uncertainty and panic we witnessed and felt. But without information, the imagination runs wild, usually to the worst-case scenario. Our train had problems on the tracks, and some passengers had to stand for lack of seats, but we finally made it to Brussels, albeit two hours behind schedule. Our next train ride is set for tomorrow, on the Thalys from Brussels to Paris. We're crossing our fingers.

Let it Snow

Airport cancellations, slippery roads, unshoveled sidewalks. Brussels obviously doesn't know how to deal with a little snowstorm. Thankfully, my sister arrived just before the skies opened up, so we spent the day nice and warm in my apartment, catching up over cups of tea and away from the madness. Later in the afternoon we ventured out on foot to enjoy the beauty of a European city under a blanket of snow.

Europe for Newcomers

Less than two days from now my sister will arrive in Brussels. She has never been to Europe, and her only overseas experiences include a family vacation to the Dominican Republic in 1998 and a trip to Mexico a few years after that. I’m thrilled to be the one to introduce her to this continent that has been such a part of my life for the past eight years, but I’m also a little nervous. Will she like it here? What will she think of the people, the food, and the teeny little cars? Will she be as inspired by the history and architectural beauty of Europe as I am and will she thrive as a cultural outsider as I do? Or will she feel shy about communicating with the locals and nervous about being surrounded by the unfamiliar? How, exactly, do you show Europe to a newcomer?

Our siblings-only European tour will start with two nights in Brussels followed by a weekend in Amsterdam. Then it’s back to Brussels for two days before leaving for Paris, where we’ll spend a few days visiting the main sights as well as my favorite hidden haunts. After returning to Brussels in time for Christmas we’ll have five more days to do with what we like. I’m thinking a quick trip to Antwerp or Bruges could be nice. Or maybe a relaxing afternoon spent soaking in the thermal baths of Spa? In addition to all this train-hopping and sightseeing I plan to work in plenty of local cuisine (hello, French cheese!), visiting of markets, and other aspects of daily life in Europe. My hope is that she’ll return to the U.S. with a good idea of what it’s like to live somewhere else. And a newfound love of French cheese.

For all my anxiety about our pending adventure, she seems to be taking things in stride. Sure, there was the conversation where I had to reassure her that the French will not refuse to speak to her in English even if they know how (only the truly dastardly do that), but she was also excitedly adamant about visiting Amsterdam and is looking forward to seeing the Art Nouveau buildings in Brussels as well as some of the art and design sights in Amsterdam in Paris. As a student of graphic design, and an outstanding interior designer, I know she’ll find plenty to love in Europe. I’m probably worrying for nothing, and I definitely don’t want to over-analyze the situation, but I also can’t help but want her to have a good time. During a recent phone conversation I gave her the following advice: sit back and enjoy the ride. Maybe I should try to do the same.